Summit Push Time On Nanga Parbat

On Nanga Parbat, the rope fixers have laid ropes up to Camp 3. Most of the climbers sitting in Base Camp for much of the past two weeks have reached Camp 2 by now. This is enough acclimatization for those using supplementary oxygen, which is almost everyone.

The weather is finally improving, at least for the next two days. Teams are preparing for the first summit push on Pakistan’s 8,000’ers this year.

But will snow conditions cooperate? There is still a long way from Camp 3 (below 7,000m) to the 8,125m summit. Teams typically pitch a fourth camp before the final ramps.

Route topo on a picture of the mountain.

The normal Kinshoffer route up the Diamir side of Nanga Parbat. Photo/map: Seven Summit Treks


Harila back – on foot

Kristin Harila of Norway is expected to reach Base Camp today, Carlos Garranzo reported on social media, in time to join the push. As usual, she will rely on her strong sherpa team, led by Tenjen “Lama” Sherpa. He has joined Harila on all nine summits this year.

Helicopters are not the same cheap and easy option in Pakistan as they are in Nepal. The military manages Pakistan’s helicopters, which are used almost exclusively for search and rescue. Occasionally, climbers willing to pay huge sums of money to skip the long return trek down the Baltoro Valley after K2 can cop a ride. But this is not common practice.

The climbers kneel on a summit in a sunny day, holding a Norway/Lapland flag.

Tenjen Sherpa and Kristin Harila atop Annapurna some weeks ago. Photo: Kristin Harila


The rope fixing on Nanga Parbat has proceeded comparatively slowly. This year, Mirza Ali’s Karakorum Expedition team is doing the work, according to the Alpymon Blog. Lots of snow on the mountain has delayed them. Samina Baig, the sister of Mirza Ali, will join others on the mountain, as she did last year on K2.

Little info from the field

Information from Nanga Parbat has been hard to come by. Tunc Findik of Turkey, who is hoping to climb without supplementary oxygen, noted that they have no wifi in Base Camp. Findik is attempting Nanga Parbat for the third time. It is the last mountain in his 14×8,000m quest.

Sophie Lavaud is likewise hoping to finish her 8,000m list on Nanga Parbat. She was one of the lucky few allowed into China to climb Shishapangma this past spring. Her partner, Dawa Sangay Sherpa, could not accompany her then, but he will support her on their second attempt on Nanga Parbat.

“I have bad memories [of last year’s attempt],” Lavaud said. “The couloir [between Camp 1 and Camp 2] is terribly long, 1,000m without respite to the foot of the Kinshofer Wall.”

Csaba Varga of Hungary is also attempting the mountain no-O2. It would be his 6th 8,000’er.

Broad Peak is nearly ready

Furtenbach Adventures has led the rope fixing on Broad Peak, and they have reached Camp 3. This is the last camp usually set up on the normal route. After Nanga Parbat, most climbers’ focus will turn here. Many K2 hopefuls also get a permit for Broad Peak. It serves for their acclimatization and allows them to add a second 8,000’er to their resumés.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.