The Quiet Himalaya: A New Route on Chamlang

While Everest snags the headlines, the most remarkable climb of the season may have just taken place on Chamlang, a 7,319m peak at the head of Nepal’s Hongu Valley, in the shadow of Makalu. Czechs Marek “Mara” Holeček and Zděnek “Hook” Hák have climbed a new route up the 2,000m Northwest Face, on an alpine style, eight-day climb.

Marek Holeček and Zděnek Hák on Chamlang (7,319m).

The direct line up the giant face was apparently done in a single push, after they acclimatized on Mera Peak. They also climbed lightweight: After summiting, they had to wait out a storm in a bivouac for a day. As a result, they had nothing to eat for the last three days.

The hardcore pair’s new, alpine-style route on Gasherbrum I’s SW Face won them a Piolet d’Or last year.