The Quiet Himalaya: A New Route on Chamlang

While Everest snags the headlines, the most remarkable climb of the season may have just taken place on Chamlang, a 7,319m peak at the head of Nepal’s Hongu Valley, in the shadow of Makalu. Czechs Marek “Mara” Holeček and Zděnek “Hook” Hák have climbed a new route up the 2,000m Northwest Face, on an alpine style, eight-day climb.

Marek Holeček and Zděnek Hák on Chamlang (7,319m).

The direct line up the giant face was apparently done in a single push, after they acclimatized on Mera Peak. They also climbed lightweight: After summiting, they had to wait out a storm in a bivouac for a day. As a result, they had nothing to eat for the last three days.

The hardcore pair’s new, alpine-style route on Gasherbrum I’s SW Face won them a Piolet d’Or last year.


Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Stefan Köhler
Stefan Köhler
2 years ago

Congratulations ! A great direct line ! Bernd Eberle and me climbed Chamlang in 1990 in a combination of NW-face and W-face. It was the 4 th ascent of Chamlang main summit and the first climb in pure alpin style. Our climb up and down tooks 3 1/2 days strong climbing up to 70 degree steep ice and snow slopes. Our report was published in American Alpine Journal in 1991. The expedition was organized by Doug Scott. We are happy to read, that now a direct line up to the summit was climbed. Good job, well done… Stefan Köhler, Germany