As we reported yesterday, the mayor of Saint-Gervais ordered the immediate closure of the Gouter and Tête Rousse refuges on Mont Blanc because of dangerous rockfall in the Couloir du Gouter. The extreme heat and drought have made the normal French route up Mont Blanc too risky.
The closure was designed to discourage further attempts. Climbers already at the Gouter, or those who had crossed the couloir on their way up to the 3,835m hut, were allowed to stay the night of August 11-12.
When the formal closure came into effect on August 11, dozens of alpinists were already high on the route, ignoring the advice of local guides to descend. Thirty-two climbers continued to the Gouter refuge and overnighted there. The hut is the last major stop before the summit push up Mont Blanc. But the next morning, they thought better of continuing and demanded a free helicopter evacuation by the French public rescue services, according to Aostasera.
The Gouter hut sits above the high-risk rockfall zone, meaning these climbers had already crossed the dangerous Grand Couloir to get there. To descend on foot, they had to re-cross it. Fearing falling rocks, they asked for an airlift.
The Gouter route on Mont Blanc. Photo: Wikipedia
Irresponsible behavior
The mayor of Saint-Gervais, Jean-Marc Peillex, refused. He condemned the climbers’ irresponsible behavior, especially since they demanded a free rescue at public expense from a predictable risk they were aware of and had chosen to take.
He noted that there was no medical emergency or life-threatening situation in the group. Furthermore, he stated that the Couloir had returned to “calm” conditions, making a descent on foot perfectly feasible.
After consulting the high-mountain gendarmerie, he authorized only private helicopter flights at the climbers’ expense. Some accepted that option; others walked down on their own without difficulty. The refuge is now empty.
Peillex seized on the incident to call for reform of French mountain-rescue rules. He argued that public resources should be reserved for genuine emergencies and that those who take calculated risks should bear the consequences.
Climbing the normal French route is not officially banned, and climbing has continued for much of the 2026 season. Guide companies began suspending ascents in the days leading up to the closure due to the rockfall hazard associated with the summer heat.
The formal shutdown of the two key refuges on August 11, combined with the existing ban on camping and bivouacking, effectively closed the most popular approach to Mont Blanc until conditions improve.
