Thomas Huber has done his best to stay quiet, but his return to the north face of Latok I was an open secret. Once in Pakistan, the German ace has confirmed his goal and his teammates.
Huber, Griffin, and McCrea. Photo: Thomas Huber/Facebook
“The adventure goes to Pakistan, Karakoram, Choktoi, Latok,” Huber wrote.
Indeed, Latok I is in the Choktoi Valley beside the glacier of the same name, in Pakistan’s Karakoram. Huber will team up with Americans Jon Griffin and Tad McCrea. Earlier this year, the three of them tackled some cool routes in Patagonia, including Fitzroy’s Californiana.
The elder member of the famous Huber brothers (Thomas and Alex) is determined to climb the north face of Latok I. His previous attempt was in 2019 with Simon Gietl and Yannick Boissenot.
The north face of Latok I (7,145m) is one of the so-called unsolved problems of the Himalaya and has never been climbed completely. Tom Livingstone of the UK, with Slovenians Luka Strazar and Ales Cesen, climbed Latok I from its north side in 2018, but their line did not go directly up the north face to the summit. After some unclear reports, the climbers explained that at some point, they traversed to the west face of the peak.
Expedition poster. Photo: Thomas Huber/Facebook
Latok I is also a sort of obsession for the Hubers. The Choktoi Valley has been one of their favorite playgrounds over the years. Together, they climbed Latok IV (6,459m) in 1999, and Thomas climbed Latok II (7,108m) in 1997 with Conrad Anker and Toni Gutsch. Thomas Huber also climbed the neighboring Ogre and Ogre III in 2001.
A living legend in Base camp
In fact, another legendary climber who first attempted the face — Jim Donini — first revealed Huber, Griffin and McCrea’s plans. Donini, Michael Kennedy, and Jeff and George Lowe climbed the face in 1978 and retreated just 150m from the summit. Now 81, Donini has just flown to Pakistan to follow the expedition up close.
“My goal is simply to reach base camp, grab my binoculars, and cheer the team up,” Donini said.
Base Camp on the Choktoi Glacier with the Latoks behind. Photo: Thomas Huber
