While most teams head to Nepal in the fall for its stable post-monsoon weather, some climbers are heading to Pakistan. It’s usually a summer destination, but at least three parties hope that the shorter days and colder nights of September will give them the good snow and ice conditions that the sweltering summer lacked.
This summer’s hot weather in Pakistan left many Karakoram mountains bare until about 6,000m. Rockfall was a constant threat, and three people died when struck by rocks: two on K2 and former Olympic gold medalist Laura Dahlmeier on Laila Peak. The cooler weather will be a blessing for alpinists seeking technical climbs, especially on mixed routes.
A totally new range
Simon Messner, 35, and Martin Sieberer, 37, of the Tyrol are returning to Pakistan to try a mountain in a totally new range. “Nobody ever tried to climb [it before] because it was in a restricted area,” Sieberer said.
The climbers admit that they only have a single photo of their objective to go by. Everything else is tantalizingly uncertain.
Sieberer, left, and Messner during their latest expedition in Pakistan. Photo: Martin Sieberer
The excitement returns
Sieberer admitted he had never thought he would climb in Pakistan again after bagging the first ascent of 7,200m Yermanandu Kangri in the Masherbrum massif two years ago.
“After that trip, I felt more exhausted than ever before…but now I feel the excitement again.”
As usual, the pair will not post updates, only reporting after they return in about a month.
Russians to the Ogre
The Ogre massif, with the Ogre I on the right. Photo: Wikipedia
The Russians’ plan to attempt the Ogre last year was postponed to 2025 when one of them suffered a climbing accident in the Caucasus. At that time, they intended to try the still-unclimbed north face of the mountain. It is not confirmed if they have the same goal this year, but any route on the Ogre, even a repetition, is an amazing feat. This peak has only had three previous ascents.
The Russian team at Skardu airport. Photo: Jasmine Tours
In 2023, an Italian team led by Matteo Della Bordella attempted it, but bad conditions pushed them back twice. Instead, they finally opened a route on the lesser Baintha Kabata, known as The Ogre’s Son.
Laila Peak, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Photo: Shutterstock
Laila Peak
Everest guide Kenton Cool, 51, of the UK has recently announced he will climb 6,086m Laila peak this fall. Cool is best known as the non-Nepalese climber with most Everest summits — 19. However, he has a wide climbing resumé with several alpine-style ascents and a new route on Annapurna III. It is not confirmed whether he is guiding or climbing on his own.
Laila Peak, in the Hushe Valley, is one of the most distinctive peaks of the Karakoram. Its sharp upper slopes pierce the Gilgit-Baltistan sky like a spear.
