Trango: Morrison’s Team Leaves, Another Group Arrives

As we reported earlier, Jim Morrison, Christina Lusti, and Nick McNutt planned an alpine-style climb of the Great Trango Tower in the Karakoram. They then hoped to make the first ski descent. Climber Andres Marin had given Morrison the idea to ski it.

In the third week of April, the trio and photographer Drew Smith had to turn around “painfully close to the summit.” They then made a second attempt at what Morrison called “one of the world’s most dramatic and impressive towers of granite.”

They again had to turn around when two of them, Lusti and McNutt, came down with stomach problems during the ascent.

Six days ago, during an apparent weather window, they began a third attempt but encountered unexpected snowfall. Yesterday, Nick McNutt wrote on social media that they had failed to make the summit and were going home.

“Skiing these high peaks takes many stars aligning…weather and conditions, but also physical condition and a solid crew, good planning, and a hint of luck,” he said.

Returning home.

Homeward bound. Photo: Nick McNutt


“Although it’s tough to leave without summiting, one of our goals was to come home safely,” said McNutt.

A new team arrives

Meanwhile, another team has just arrived at the base camp of the Trango Towers. Spanish-Basque climbers Eneko and Iker Pou, Fay Manners of the UK, and American-Colombian national Andres Marin also have designs on one of those granite spires. American photographers Austin Schmitz and Ben Leny are with them.

The Pou brothers, Fay Manners and Andres Marin close to the base camp of the Trango Towers.

The Pou brothers, Fay Manners and Andres Marin approach the base camp of the Trango Towers. Photo: Austin Schmitz


It is still not clear which of the towers they will attempt. But they plan to open a new alpine-style mixed route during a four-day-ascent.

Kris Annapurna

KrisAnnapurna is a writer with ExplorersWeb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, and news updates in the Himalaya, Karakoram, etc., for the past year with ExplorersWeb. Prior to that, Kris worked as a real estate agent, interpreter, and translator in criminal law. Now based in Madrid, Spain, she was born and raised in Hungary.