Winds Foil New Route Attempt on Dhaulagiri

Poor weather has forced the experienced team of Horia Colibășanu, Marius Gane, and Peter Hámor to call off their attempt to open a new route on Dhaulagiri (8,167m).

The trio were going for the unclimbed Northwest Ridge, without oxygen and Sherpa support. Stationed at Base Camp since the beginning of April, they managed to reach 5,600m through a steep chimney and technical ice, but could advance no further because of strong winds and continuing bad weather.

“We needed winds no stronger than 30kph around the summit for at least four days… This year, the good weather failed to happen. Just as in 2014, a weather disturbance brought endless rains to Romania, floods to Slovakia and a lack of windows for ascents without supplemental oxygen in the Himalaya,” said Horia Colibășanu archly.

The steep chimney up to the Northwest Ridge. Photo: Horia Colibășanu

Colibășanu remains optimistic about the new route, if the weather cooperates next time.

“We have overcome the most difficult part, a chimney and a very difficult and technical wall with rocks falling off,” said Colibășanu. “We covered this stretch countless times, as we had to equip it for climbing. Beyond it, on the ridge, it was possible to walk. Next year, with the route already partially equipped, our chances are much higher.”

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