Climbing around a serac. Frame of a video by Nima Gyalzen Sherpa
“The guides will fix Camp 3 and above,” reported outfitter Summit Karakoram. While no one is uttering the words “summit push”, guide Nyma Gyalzen Sherpa recently implied that given the time constraints, their next move might be all the way to the top.
They had wanted to set up Camp 3 on their previous rotation three days ago, but strong winds pushed them back down from Camp 2.
Weather forecast on the summit of K2 (8,611m) shows dry but windy conditions.
Decision time at Camp 3
The guides should be able to reach Camp 2 tomorrow and start fixing up the Black Pyramid toward Camp 3. Once (and if) they get there, they will pitch the tents and supply the camp with gear, fuel, and oxygen. Then they will have to make some important decisions. Should they try to get higher? If so, should they set up a fourth camp?
The Nepali team that summited K2 last winter didn’t use one, but they were a large, strong team climbing in astonishingly good weather. On the other hand, we will never know if the tragic end to the second summit push on February 5, 2021 would have ended differently with a Camp 4 in place.
Last year, based on the information we have, the only one who might have had a chance to survive was JP Mohr if there had been a camp 4
You cannot draw such a conclusion based on the information we have and we have no idea what would have happened.
What if they had started the summit push a day later from an already set-up camp 4?
I do not draw conclusions but it seems reasonable to set up a camp 4 and minimize risks in the face of any eventuality
After the horrible end to the 2021 K2 winter climb, I wouldn’t think there would be a mad rush to try it again so soon.
Three strong climber’s were no match for the Savage mountain once the winds began to blow.
I hope climbers make wise and realistic decisions and don’t take any unnecessary risk just for the sake of summit.
That would be rare…..
Grace only doing it for Instagram she paid the sherpa to bring her up as fast as possible xD
The Sherpas are pushing too hard in a short period of time, but needs to follow the nature voice. One can not make their own decisions when the mountain is not ready. Specifically when the mountain name is K2