Winds Foil New Route Attempt on Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri. Photo: Horia Colibășanu

Poor weather has forced the experienced team of Horia Colibășanu, Marius Gane, and Peter Hámor to call off their attempt to open a new route on Dhaulagiri (8,167m).

The trio were going for the unclimbed Northwest Ridge, without oxygen and Sherpa support. Stationed at Base Camp since the beginning of April, they managed to reach 5,600m through a steep chimney and technical ice, but could advance no further because of strong winds and continuing bad weather.

“We needed winds no stronger than 30kph around the summit for at least four days… This year, the good weather failed to happen. Just as in 2014, a weather disturbance brought endless rains to Romania, floods to Slovakia and a lack of windows for ascents without supplemental oxygen in the Himalaya,” said Horia Colibășanu archly.

The steep chimney up to the Northwest Ridge. Photo: Horia Colibășanu

Colibășanu remains optimistic about the new route, if the weather cooperates next time.

“We have overcome the most difficult part, a chimney and a very difficult and technical wall with rocks falling off,” said Colibășanu. “We covered this stretch countless times, as we had to equip it for climbing. Beyond it, on the ridge, it was possible to walk. Next year, with the route already partially equipped, our chances are much higher.”

Relevant Links

Romanian-Slovakian Team Reach Dhaulagiri

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash Routen is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK specialising in adventurous travel and expeditions, such as mountaineering, polar travel, and ocean crossings. Ash juggles a day job as a public health scientist with this second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, national and international outdoor and adventure magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Alongside writing, Ash also spends some time undertaking his own adventures, and completed a 640 km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in 2018. His next arctic journey is a 700 km trek along the coast of Baffin Island in Canada.


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