Manaslu: Moro Back Down — For a Pair Of Crampons?!

Manaslu Winter 8000ers
Simone Moro and Iñaki Alvarex earlier today at 6,500m on Manaslu. From a video by Simone Moro
The crazy, unpredictable Manaslu climb had a new wrinkle today, when Simone Moro generously gave Iñaki Alvarez his crampons, forcing Moro to return to Base Camp for a spare pair.
The story goes like this: Taking advantage of a gorgeous sunny morning today, all the climbers went up toward what would be Camp 3. Alex Txikon, Iñaki Alvarez, and the Sherpas set off from Camp 2 while Moro himself started from Camp 1, hoping to catch up with the others during the day. They met at around 6,500m, whereupon Moro discovered that Iñaki Alvarez had lost a crampon on his way up.
Alvarez had already been on the mountain for three nights, “so sending him down is not fair,” Moro said, who gave Alvarez his crampons and hustled back to Base Camp for another pair.

While crampons are needed amid the crevasses, snowshoes are just right in the fresh snow lower down. Photo: Phelipe Eizaguirre

Back in Base Camp, Moro posted a video, shot with Alvarez at 6,500m earlier in the day, explaining the odd event.
This unscheduled detour means that the Italian has lost two days’ worth of climbing stamina. If he wants to summit on Sunday with the rest of the team, he will have to leave Base Camp tomorrow, climb back up to wherever his partners set their Camp 4, then start again with the group the following night toward the top.
Txikon and the rest of the team are at Camp 3 at 6,550m, according to his tracker. Simone Moro earlier reached this point, their highest so far, and cached rope and equipment here.

The highest point reached so far on Manaslu, in yellow. Previously, a huge bergschrund (“rimaya” in Spanish) forced the climbers to pioneer a new route. Graph: Ana Azpilicueta/Alex Txikon

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Victor
Victor
4 months ago

What a great team spirit they have!

+1
Bill Bones
4 months ago

It’s doubtful they’ll ever be found any time soon, my guess is they were swept away by avalanche, rock or icefall

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Paul
Paul
4 months ago
Reply to  Bill Bones

This article is about Manaslu not K2!

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John
John
4 months ago
Reply to  Paul

Maybe he meant the crampons?

+2
ziggy
ziggy
4 months ago

Simone Moro, Alex Txikon, Iñaki Alvarez, and the Sherpas”. Could you list any name of Sherpas here along with the names of guys who are dependent on them?

+7
Jay
Jay
4 months ago
Reply to  ziggy

Good call-out!

+2
Use Full Names
Use Full Names
4 months ago
Reply to  ziggy

Notice how the term “Sherpas” is used unknowingly and there is no conscious effort to actually name them? I’m not here to blame Angela but everyone (me included) who in the past have used this term so loosely without giving it a second thought. Why don’t we refer to Moro, Txikon and Alvarez as “Westerners” instead of referring to them by their surnames? Hopefully we start to notice this and make a conscious effort to appreciate everyone on the mountain individually.

+11
Paul
Paul
4 months ago
Reply to  Use Full Names

One reason is that the sherpas are being paid for their services

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Paul
Paul
4 months ago
Reply to  Paul

There needs to be a wider discussion of how to acknowledge all expeditition members and this extends to many besides the lead climbers.

+1
Caravaggio
Caravaggio
3 months ago
Reply to  Paul

So, who is paid dont have names, right?

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RayG
RayG
4 months ago

If the ‘Sherpas’ are ‘leading’ the route and fixing ropes then they should have more recognition!!

+3
Kurt
Kurt
4 months ago
Reply to  RayG

So Simone and Alex are being guided? If the sherpas are doing all the trail breaking, rope fixing and route finding? It’s OK just say so…OR are the Sherpas just taking loads higher up?

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Hello
Hello
3 months ago
Reply to  RayG

This website covered Manaslu expedition from the start. Go back and find older articles if you want to find more information about this expedition. Sherpa’s names have been mentioned numerous times in those articles. Alex Txikon and Simone More aren’t guided. They are independent climbers and have done a lot of work on their own.

+3
Caravaggio
Caravaggio
3 months ago

Alex Txikon, Iñaki Alvarez, and the Sherpas”

Just this, Sherpas, no persons, they dont count as individuals to western journalists, they have no name, they are nothing.

Just saying, you all were NOTHING without “the Sherpas”

+1
Nat
Nat
3 months ago
Reply to  Caravaggio

Read above before comment? Please, thank u.

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