Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean of France have made the first ascent of Jannu East (7,468m) after an alpine-style, single push climb via the 2,300m north face. They are now safely back down.
Vedrines, one of the most outstanding climbers of his generation, describes the feat as a life-changing experience and “the greatest achievement of [his] mountaineering career.”
Benjamin Vedrines. Photo: Vedrines/Jean
The climbers’ home team has just released the news, accompanied by some stunning photos, although we do not know exactly when the summit took place.
Second attempt
Jannu lies in eastern Nepal, near Kangchenjunga. This was the second time the young French climbers attempted its formidable north face, after an unsuccessful first try last year with Leo Billon as the third member.
In preparation, Vedrines and Jean acclimatized carefully and earned a bonus — a first ascent of 6,808m Anidesh Chuli, also known as The White Wave, at the end of September. They then waited for the right conditions before attempting the north face of Jannu, which led to the peak’s previously unclimbed East summit.
Vertical ice pitches on the north face of Jannu. Photo: Vedrines/Jean
The climb involved gaining the vertical north face of Jannu until the snowy summit ridge. They then followed the corniced knife-edge until the East summit.
They assessed the route’s difficulty as ED- (Extremely Difficult -).
Four days on the wall
The team posted two days ago that they had started the climb, but it had actually taken place earlier, since Nicolas Jean revealed that they spent four days on the wall.
Mixed vertical terrain on Jannu’s north face. Photo: Vedrines/Jean
We will have to wait for a complete report. For the time being, we have some impressive drone images, a topo of the new route (called Le sommet des Pieux), and some of their initial thoughts.
Topo of the Vedrines/Jean route up the north face of Jannu East. Photo: @quentin_degrenelle
A career peak
The Jannu climbers with the void at their feet. Photo: @quentin_degrenelle
Vedrines remarked on the difficulty of the climb and the hugely rewarding feeling.
I feel like I drew on all my knowledge and abilities to ascend this 2,300m Himalayan wall. Once we reached the summit, after so many trials and tribulations, tears flowed. A dream had come true.
Meanwhile, Nicolas Jean summarized the experience in four words:
Concentration, commitment, self-improvement and emotion…all the ingredients of high-altitude Himalayanism.
The climbers on the upper part of the face. Photo: @quentin_degrenelle
Added Vedrines:
Nicolas and I formed a close-knit team, pushed to the limits of ourselves, each pulling the other upward, making this ascent one of the most beautiful chapters of our lives.
The Jannu East summiters, back in Base Camp. Benjamin Vedrines, left, and Nicolas Jean. Photo: @quentin_degrenelle
