Right at peak climbing season, all the refuges along the normal route up Mont Blanc have closed due to dangerous conditions, and there is no reopening date in sight. The extreme drought hitting western Europe has created an unacceptably dangerous rockfall situation, forcing Mont Blanc authorities to respond.
Yesterday, the mayor of Saint Gervais, Jean-Marc Peillex, ordered the closure of the huge refuges on the normal route of Mont Blanc: Gouter, which accommodates up to 120 people during summer, and Tête Rousse, which can host 80 people and lies at a lower altitude.
Climbers who prefer to tackle the dangerous Couloir de Gouter between midnight and 4 am, when temperatures are lower, and the rocks above are less unstable, tend to use the Tête Rousse. Falling rocks killed two climbers in the so-called Death Couloir some weeks ago, although they took all precautions and crossed in the early hours.
Recent rockfall at the Couloir du Gouter. Photo: St. Gervais City Hall press office
Serious warning
“The mountain guides of Saint-Gervais-Les Contamines and Chamonix have already decided to suspend all planned ascents of Mont Blanc for as long as the situation persists,” Peillex noted, referring to the danger in the Couloir.
The last time Pelleix had to take such a measure was in August 2022, during a similar extreme heat wave, after several accidents involving climbers who ignored the warnings.
Recently, we reported on massive rockfalls on the south side of Matterhorn and the decision by guides in the area to cancel their guided climbs on the iconic peak.
The 4,000’ers Route undoable
Closing the refuges doesn’t mean closing the mountain itself. That would be difficult, considering it has several routes and faces two countries. Closing refuges is intended to deter climbers from trying to summit by the Gouter route.
As for the second-most popular route of Mont Blanc, the 4,000’ers Route (Trois Monts) from the Aiguille de Midi, the Cosmiques hut, and the Mont Blanc du Tacul, climbers should seek updated information before traveling. As far as we know, the hut is open, but the famous ice cave at the exit of the cable car that marks the beginning of the Arete des Cosmiques — the sharp snow ridge on the way to the Cosmiques hut — melted and crumbled last week for the first time since 2003. The pass to the Arete was then closed while the cave was repaired.
Yet, the main problem is the route itself. “I’m not sure about the current conditions of Mont Blanc du Tacul, but no one that I am aware of has been on the Trois Monts route since early July,” Chamonix UIAGM guide Hellias Milerioux told ExplorersWeb. “The crevasse [bergschrund] at the base of Tacul is too wide open to be crossed.”
Up to climbers
Climbers are warning of risky conditions all across the massif, with dry glaciers, weak snow bridges, and open crevasses.
“It is up to all climbers, whether accompanied by guides or not, to fully grasp the gravity of the situation and abandon their climbing plans for the duration of this crisis,” Pelleix said about the current situation.
“The natural environment and the mountains dictate the rules, and every climber must act with humility,” he added. “Climbing Mont Blanc is not a challenge or a feat of daring, and it is not worth risking the lives of climbers and rescuers out of pride.”
The mayor of Saint Gervais has been active on social media and in public appearances, harshly criticizing poorly equipped, inexperienced, and irresponsible climbers on Mont Blanc and the surrounding areas.
Hot until Sunday
Meteofrance expects Thursday to be the peak of the current heatwave, with high temperatures all day, followed by thunderstorms in the evening. Temperatures are expected to decrease from Sunday onward. Check forecasts here.
Crazy weather expected today around Chamonix, with thunderstorms and nearly 30ºC temperatures. Graphic by Meteofrance
Scorching summer
Europe is experiencing a historic period of high temperatures and drought, resulting in thousands of related deaths across several countries. In the lower reaches, the continent’s major rivers, such as the Danube, are drying up, exposing the hulks of sunken World War II ships. In the mountains, the risky conditions are forcing guides to cancel their most popular trips and authorities to take painful measures.
“We have to adapt,” Millerioux said. He has chosen to guide in different places, orientations, and types of terrain. “This is an ongoing process that is not going to stop: it’s global warming!” he said.
