Mikel Zabalza, Ruben Perez, and Mikel Saez de Urabain have completed the first ascent of 6,518m Jugal II.
According to Spanish media, the team climbed via the east-southeast side and reached the summit on October 26. One day later, they returned to base camp, their home team told Diario de Navarra. Zabalza and Urabain had explored the area in the spring of 2024, but bad weather prevented them from attempting the peak. The team will share more details when they’re back home.
Two attempts, one success
Jugal II was also the planned goal for Italians Nives Meroi and Romano Benet, who left for the area three weeks ago. Originally, the team wanted to climb Tilicho Peak in the Annapurna region. Recent storms and floods had cut trails and swept away bridges in that area, so they had to seek an alternative.
ExplorersWeb caught up with Meroi as she and Benet reached a lodge to seek shelter from the heavy rain.
“We’re on our way to Kathmandu, and we are with the Spaniards,” she confirmed. As Nives explained, they all attempted the climb, and the Spanish team reached the summit, while the Italians retreated on the previous day. Until now, there has been no news from the Italians since Tine Cuder of Slovenia, the third team member, fell ill and left the expedition two weeks ago.
Left to right, Nives Meroi, Tine Cuder, and Romano Benet in Kathmandu. Photo: Romano Benet
Open since 2023
The Jugal Himal is just northeast of Kathmandu, on the Tibetan border. Surprisingly accessible for a previously unclimbed peak, it’s reachable by bus and a few days’ trekking. Jugal I and II opened to foreign expeditions in 2023. In spring 2024, veteran South Korean climber Um Hong-gil led a Korean-Nepalese expedition featuring Sherpa celebrities Dawa Yangzum and Lakpa Dendi to both unclimbed Jugals. They successfully summited Jugal I, but not Jugal II. According to The Himalayan Database, Jugal II remained unclimbed.
The main peaks in Jugal Himal. Photo: Nepali News Hub
