Alex Txikon is currently hiking in to winter Annapurna.
The Basque climber has not shared details about team, style, or strategy, but he is leading some Italian clients up a trekking peak and then to Annapurna Base Camp. Among them is Mattia Conte, who will also attempt Annapurna with Txikon and a strong Sherpa team.
Txikon with Sherpa climbers on his winter Annapurna team. Photo: Alex Txikon/Facebook
According to Txikon, the Sherpas include Chhepal, Ang Gyalu, Magkpa, Ming Temba, and Lakpa.
Already in the mountains
The expedition, organized by Txikon in collaboration with Seven Summit Treks, will take Conte, Domenico Perri, and Llona Mesits to the Chulus, a group of four trekking peaks conveniently located north of Annapurna, close to Manang village. The Italian Alpine Club (CAI) states that they will climb Chulu East/Far East.
Expedition banner from CAI (Italian Alpine Club).
The confusing Chulus
The Chulu group comprises Chulu West (6,419m), Central (6,584m), East (between 6,429 and 6,200m) and Far East (around 6,050m). Far East is reputedly the easiest. Depending on the sources, the Chulus are three or four separate peaks, and the altitudes also vary.
According to expert Jamie McGuinness, the list of trekking peaks by the NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association) mistakes the altitude of Chulu Central with Chulu East, easier to reach but lower. Here is McGuinness’s article on the issue, with Wikipedia and NMA for further reference.
While measuring the 8,000’ers is the subject of several studies, the altitude of trekking peaks is not so strictly scrutinized. Also, whether the expedition reaches the Far East or the East summit, or both, remains to be seen.
Chulu East and Chulu Far East appear in this photo by Everest Journeys.
On social media today, Txikon reported that his group is in the mountains and has just touched the 5,000m mark on an unidentified peak. The usual trek to the Chulus follows the classic Annapurna circuit, reaching Manang after crossing the Thorong La pass.
The double-peak winter strategy is not new for Txikon. In winter 2020, he led a group to Ama Dablam before attempting winter Everest. At that time, they summited Ama Dablam during both meteorological and astronomical winter. It is unclear if the group will launch their summit push on the trekking peak before Dec. 21. It is not a matter of making history, since Chulu is a lower trekking peak. Still, the climbers will likely encounter full winter conditions.
Conte back to winter peaks after K2 tragedy
This will be Mattia Conte’s second attempt on a winter 8,000’er, and again with Seven Summit Treks. Previously, he attempted Winter K2 in January 2021. At that time, his old friend and expedition partner Sergi Mingote perished in a fall.
After the Nepali team summited, Conte declined to make a second summit push, which eventually ended in the deaths of four more people. Previously, Conte climbed Manaslu (likely, to its foresummit) in 2018, Gasherbrum II 2019, and Broad Peak in 2022, all without supplementary O2.
Milan’s Mattia Conte in the Alps last summer. Photo: Facebook
