Sherpas who guide most of the year typically relax and enjoy family life over the winter. But some of the younger generation use the cold season to fulfill their climbing ambitions. Such is the case of Prakash Gurung and Yukta G. The pair are currently attempting the first ascent of 6,759m Khumjungar Himal.
Upper Mustang
Prakash Gurung and Yukta G launched their “Project Together 2023-24” in November. They wanted to do an alpine-style climb with an environmentally friendly approach, to emphasize preserving the undisturbed and unspoiled mountains. Khumjungar Himal, in the upper Mustang region, is a nice choice, as it lies far from the most popular peaks and trekking routes.
Prakash Gurung, left, and Yukta G, center, with their climbing permit for Khumjungar Himal. Photo: Project Together/Instagram
The climbers flew to Jomson, then moved to the little village of Tange at 3,359m on Saturday, and a yak camp 1,000m further up yesterday. They should reach their Base Camp location today.
First complete ascent
The Nepalese want to achieve the first ascent of Khumjungar Himal. interestingly, Luke Smithwick of the U.S. reported he climbed the peak via the south face, leading a U.S. team this past fall. When we asked him about it, he explained: “We climbed the south face to the summit ridge and returned to base camp the same day. We did not touch the summit.”
“It looks like the Nepalese are climbing on the north side of the peak,” Smithwick added. “We were attracted to the south side for the challenge.”
Prakash Gurung and Yukta G will climb alpine style in winter conditions.
Prakash Gurung is an IFMGA guide and mountaineering instructor. He guided an attempt on the South Face of Lhotse and has worked the 8,000m commercial circuit for several outfitters. He has also helped train fellow Nepalese climbers.
Yukta G is an aspiring guide with Elite Exped. He summited some peaks with Anna Gutu, who later perished in an avalanche on Shishapangma.
Prakash Gurung on the summit of Everest. Photo: Prakash Gurung/Facebook
