Ukrainian Piolet D’Or Pair To Attempt New Route on Makalu

Some days ago, we wondered about the identities of the two unnamed climbers with a Makalu climbing permit for this fall. It turns out that the mystery pair are Ukrainians Mykyta Balabanov and Mykhailo Fomin. The climbers are totally alone on the mountain, hoping to open a new route in alpine style.

As with other interesting climbs this season (and this is definitely in the top three, along with the expeditions on Jannu East), they have not disclosed more details. The climbers received their permit in September, and Seven Summit Treks confirmed the expedition to The Himalayan Times.

Balbanov and Fomin earned a special jury mention at the Piolets d’Or — and our recognition as the best climb of 2021 — for their new route on Annapurna III with Viacheslav Polezhaiko. At the time, they identified themselves as Mikhail and Nikita, but now, post-invasion, they use the Ukrainian spelling of their names.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.