Judging by the wider range of guided climbs this fall, commercial trips to less crowded 7,000m peaks are on the rise. We asked outfitters about this new trend.
The almost 8,000’ers
There are 86 peaks (including sub-peaks) between 7,000m and 7,999m in Nepal, another 76 in Pakistan, some more in India’s Himalaya, Tibet, the Pamirs, Tian Shan, and the Hindu Kush. Many are rarely visited. A few, such as Gasherbrum IV and Jannu, count among the most difficult peaks in the world. You can read our series on some of the “forgotten” 7,000’ers here.
Climbers usually take on these peaks without supplementary oxygen, even on guided expeditions. However, guided teams nearly always have oxygen available if required.
Climbing lonely Baruntse in the Khumbu. Photo: David Goettler
Traditionally, altitudes from 7,000m to 7,999m have not been that popular among mountaineers. The peaks are not tall enough to have the allure (and perceived prestige) of the 8,000’ers, but they are tall enough to involve a significant cost in permits and logistics. They also have all the risks associated with altitude. Sometimes they are also more difficult than one of the 14 8,000m giants. So, what has changed?
New Everest regulations
Nepal’s government announced a new set of regulations for next year that require all Everest climbers to have previous experience on a 7,000’er. Currently, there is no confirmation if/when the government will enforce the measures, but both local and international outfitters are already including 7,000m peaks in their catalogs.
Several outfitters admitted that the situation is still unclear, and there has been no confirmation of enforcement.
“We are not sure if there will be time to apply the new regulations in 2026 or if they will have to wait until 2027,” Lakpa Sherpa of 8K Expeditions told ExplorersWeb.
“We don’t know exactly when or how strictly it will be enforced, but the news has already influenced climbers’ decisions. Many climbers are now looking at 7,000m peaks as good preparation for Everest, both to build skills and to strengthen their applications should the rule be applied,” said Ajaya Paudel, Operations Director of Himalayan Guides Nepal.
There is definitely a correlation between the Department of Tourism’s announcement and an increase in clients showing interest in 7,000m peaks. The thriving Nepalese expedition industry has been quick to respond. The companies are looking to increase their offerings with peaks that reach the required altitude but also offer a straightforward route — or at least one on which it is easy to fix ropes.
Choices this fall
8K Expeditions offers trips to Baruntse and Himlung, possibly the two most climbed 7,000’ers in Nepal. To optimize logistics and staff, 8K plans to launch the two climbs on October 12, right after the Manaslu season, Lakpa Sherpa explained.
Himalayan Guides Nepal confirmed an expedition to Himlung Himal and some interest in forming a second group for Baruntse.
“The growing interest in 7,000m peaks is highlighted by the need for a dedicated rope fixing team on Himlung starting last year,” Paudel said. “For many climbers, these peaks are a logical step between the technical 6,000’ers and the 8,000m giants. They offer valuable high altitude experience and some technical challenge, but with less cost and commitment.”
Furtenbach Adventures has been sending a team to Putha Hiunchuli, sometimes identified as Dhaulagiri VII, since 2014.
“In most of our expeditions, we were the only team on the mountain,” Lukas Furtenbach told us. “I think it is a perfect training peak.”
A high camp on Phuta Hiunchuli. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures
Secondary points of 8,000m peaks
Seven Summit Treks is also opting for a sub-peak of an 8,000’er. They will climb 7,525m Annapurna IV, the fourth-highest peak in the Annapurna range. Along with the taller Annapurna II, it is isolated from other peaks in the range by a wide col.
The normal route was opened in 1955 by a German expedition via the North Face and Northwest Ridge. Seven Summit Treks will send a team in September-October to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Annapurna I’s first ascent.
“The mountain demands strong fundamentals in high-altitude climbing, mixed terrain, and self-management,” Seven Summit Treks explains. They state they will offer strong Sherpa support to provide a “safe yet rewarding climb.” The company also has a team set for Himlung.
Below, you can watch a video of a guided climb with fixed ropes on Annapurna IV by Namas Adventure:
Finally, there is an expedition to 7,132m Api Peak (Api Himal) in western Nepal. We cannot confirm whether this team is guided, as the only available information is that the group comprises seven foreign members. Api is remote and technical, with a prominence of 2,040m. It was first climbed by a Japanese team via the Northwest Face in 1954.
The southwest side of Api. Photo: Wikipedia
