On Nepal’s New Year — it’s 2080, by their calendar — the changeable weather continues to play with Annapurna climbers’ plans. The latest forecast warns of high winds on Saturday and snow on Sunday, right when most hoped to summit.
Some climbers have delayed the start of their push at the last minute. Among them, India’s Arjun Vajpai.
“The winds seem to be picking up on the 15th,” he explained. “We aim to reach the summit now on the morning of April 17.”
Others, however, are already in higher camps, following the rope-fixing team, which is pushing ahead despite the weather. Sajid Sadpara, climbing without oxygen and helping with the ropes, has reached Camp 4. He is preparing to set off for the top tonight. EliteExped and Imagine Nepal teams should be on their way to Camp 3.
The route up Annapurna. Photo/map: Moeses Fiamoncini
Other climbers were also willing to accompany the rope-fixing team. One of them is 64-year-old Bulgarian Gospodin Dinev, who needs to finish Annapurna quickly in order to climb Dhaulagiri and Makalu before the end of the spring season.
Dinev is a veteran mountaineer with two previous 8,000’ers and a bitter past experience on Annapurna. He was a member of a national expedition in 1989 that ended tragically when his friend Milen Medkov died.
Gospodin Dinev. Photo: Stoyan Radev/BNR.bg
Manaslu
The Canadian team has finally called off their expedition because of deep, soft snow. Only two teams remain in Base Camp, waiting for better conditions: SummitClimb and a Japanese team from Tokyo University.
Not far from the Manaslu, another Japanese team led by Daijo Saito is looking for the right place to pitch their base camp at the foot of Jarkya Peak. They hope to make the first ascent of Jarkya.
The Jarkya Peak team takes it easy during the acclimatization phase of their expedition. Photo: Daijo Saito
Other 8,000’ers
While action seems to be nearing its end on Manaslu, Dhaulagiri has not yet started, since a significant number of Sherpas and team leaders will only be available after their job on Annapurna ends. Hence, the hurry for many workers to finish Annapurna as soon as conditions permit.
Carlos Soria, aiming for his 13th attempt on Dhaulagiri, has spent 17 days trekking in the Khumbu and will fly to Base Camp next week.
Meanwhile, teams continue to arrive at Everest Base Camp. Here, there is no news about the state of the Khumbu Icefall after three Sherpas died on Wednesday.
Other expeditions are on their way to Kangchenjunga.
