Japanese to Attempt Unclimbed Jarkya Peak

A Japanese party is heading to Nepal to attempt the first ascent of 6,473m Jarkya.

The team consists of Daijo Saito, Tatsuro Sugimoto, Masayuki Takenaka, and Ryota Nomura.

The unclimbed Jarkya lies in the Manaslu/Mansiri Himal on the Tibetan border. It first opened for climbing in 2014. Takenaka attempted it in 2020, reaching 5,400m.

Jarkya on the map marked with red point.

Jarkya, marked with a red dot. Photo: Daijo Saito


Partners Sugimoto and Saito did the first ascent of Pankar Himal (6,264m) on May 8, 2018, with other four Japanese partners, including the well-known Yasuhiro Hanatani.

Nomura is a young mountaineer who recently attracted a lot of attention after completing a winter traverse of the watershed of Hokkaido Island.

Last year, Daijo Saito and Akihiro Shigenobu made the first ascent of 6,235m Saula on the Nepal-Tibet border, east-northeast of Samagaon.

On April 4, the party will start trekking to their base camp at Jarkya. They expect to reach it in just over a week and to begin their ascent around April 15.

Jarkya on the map and in a photo

Jarkya, with potential routes. Photo: Daijo Saito and Hume-san


According to Saito, crossing an icefall from Camp 2 to Camp 3 will be one of the key challenges. Avalanche slopes poised above the icefall are a concern, especially this season. A lot of snow has fallen in the Himalaya, including around the Manaslu area.

Daijo Saito told ExplorersWeb that he dreams of climbing virgin peaks beyond 7,000m in the future, but the 6,000’ers attract him a lot.

“Experiencing a view that no one else knows about is the ultimate pleasure, and you can’t find out about it on an iPhone,” he said.

Studying the possible route before flying to Nepal.

Going over the possible route before leaving for Nepal. Photo: Daijo Saito


"The key is to exploit the weakness of this glacier", told ExplorersWeb Daijo Saito.

The icefall on Jarkya that the team will have to solve. Photo submitted by Daijo Saito


Saito modestly added that he doesn’t consider himself among the strongest climbers. But for him, the most important is to enjoy unexplored mountains.

A team picture.

The team. Photo: Daijo Saito and Hume-san

Kris Annapurna

KrisAnnapurna is a writer with ExplorersWeb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, and news updates in the Himalaya, Karakoram, etc., for the past year with ExplorersWeb. Prior to that, Kris worked as a real estate agent, interpreter, and translator in criminal law. Now based in Madrid, Spain, she was born and raised in Hungary.