This spring on Annapurna, everyone is again doing their summit push at the same time. Climbers expected to reach Camp 3 today and top out on Thursday. But the weather is not cooperating.
Yesterday, the teams went from Base Camp all the way to Camp 2 (5,700m) in a long, intense day. The section between Camp 2 and Camp 3 will be the crux of the route. It features steep sections and exposed passages among seracs and crevasses, with a constant risk of avalanches from the peak’s upper glacier until Camp 3, at approximately 6,600m.
Today, climbers remained in Camp 2 because of heavy snowfall. They told their home teams that they had to reconsider their options. It is not clear if anyone tried to push further or not.
There are no ropes beyond Camp 3, and staff hope to address that tomorrow. It is not clear whether they will set up a Camp 4 or not.
There are several variations on Annapurna’s normal route between Camp 2 and Camp 3. Above, the so-called Dutch Rib variation. Photo: Tunc Findik
At least, crowds are smaller than in 2022-23, as there are fewer climbers on the mountain. The latest report by Nepal’s Department of Tourism lists 25 foreign climbers, distributed over three teams.
Modern tactics
Most of the climbers currently pushing for the summit may have done one rotation up to Camp 2, since the ropes were fixed two weeks ago. Most then took a helicopter back to the comforts and the richer air of Pokhara, which is only 822m above sea level.
Everyone will rely on supplementary oxygen to some extent. Supplies should be available at Camp 3. Check out our previous feature on how climbing methods have changed on Annapurna.
No-O2 climbers
Some climbers on the mountain are determined to go without supplementary O2. They need therefore to acclimatize slowly and carefully. Domi Trastoy of Andorra, with partner David Nosas of Spain, arrived at Base Camp on Sunday. They have made their first acclimatization trip to Camp 1 and are back in Base Camp. They intend to go up again tomorrow, spend a night in Camp 2, and possibly tag Camp 3.
Alli Pepper’s tracker locates her at Camp 2. Pepper had already made an acclimatization trip in Langtang with partner Mikel Sherpa. After reaching Annapurna Base Camp, the pair spent two nights in Camp 1, with a day trip to Camp 2. Then they both went to Pokhara for a week.
