Chamlang, Manaslu, and Dhaulagiri; First Ascents in Pakistan

A French team will attempt to open a new route up the north pillar of 7,321m Chamlang, in the Makalu area. In 2020, Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hak won a Piolet D’Or for their new line on Chamlang’s NW face.

The French expedition includes Symon Welfringer, Aurelien Vaissiere, Damien Tomasi, and Fanny Schmutz-Tomasi, Montagnes Magazine reported. Welfringer, fresh from kayaking and climbing in Greenland, partnered with Vaissiere for a new route on the west face of Lobuche East in 2018.

On Manaslu, things are progressing quickly. Sherpas have already fixed the route to Camp 3 through the maze of seracs and crevasses. Climbers are following behind at different paces according to their style.

For example, Mingma G explained that clients aiming for an O2-assisted ascent would go to Camp 2, then return to BC. The no-O2 climbers would continue at least to Camp 3.

Tent city: One of the higher camps (Camp 2?) on Manaslu already hosts over a hundred climbers. Photo: Da Dendi Sherpa


Da Dendi Sherpa of Glacier Expeditions reports that many climbers are currently either in or on their way to Camp 2. He estimates that the summit push will happen September 27-28, weather permitting.

On Dhaulagiri, Carlos Soria says that they are heading for Camp 1, despite an uncertain forecast. They will try to spend the next three days between Camp 1 and Camp 2.

Meanwhile, in Pakistan’s Shimshal Valley, the Poles have bagged two more first ascents. Maciej Kimel, Michal Czech, and Wadim Jablonski scaled the previously unclimbed Trident (6,153m), while veterans Janusz Golab and Adam Bielecki climbed the north face of Gunj-e-Sar (approx. 6,150m).

The Polish team’s latest successes, Trident and Gunj-e-Sar. Marked by @dominobb on a photo by Karim Hayat.