Climbers Start Up Gangapurna and Trango

The Polish team has started its climb up Trango’s Nameless Tower. Meanwhile, in Nepal, Topo Mena and Jonatan Garcia have set up Base Camp at the foot of Gangapurna’s South Face.

After two weatherbound days in Advanced Base Camp, Michal Krol, Janusz Golab, and Maciej Kimel have finally started up the unrepeated British route up Nameless Tower. They hope that good weather will let them climb for at least five days, Carlos Garranzo reports.

The Polish team’s location on Trango Towers, shared yesterday by Polski Himalaizm Sportowy.


The team needed three days to set up Advance Base Camp, which is right by the wall, 900 vertical metres higher than the regular base camp.


Meanwhile, in Nepal, Topo Mena of Ecuador and Jonatan Garcia of Spain have reached Base Camp. In the end, they have chosen to climb Gangapurna’s south side.

Although the climbers have not publicly mentioned their position, Mena’s partner, Carla Perez, shared his tracker location and a message. Mena says that they have pitched a “safe” Base Camp at 4,700m.


The pair intends to climb the face in a single, alpine-style push. Gangapurna is usually tackled from its West and East ridges, while its North and South faces are largely terra incognita. Garcia told ExplorersWeb that they would choose their line according to conditions on the face at the time.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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Average Joe
Average Joe
3 months ago

that south face of Gangapurna looks very intimidating. Sending luck.

3 months ago

There are two existing routes in the south face of Gangapurna, one by the Canadian John Lauchlan and others in 1981 and the other by the Korean Kim Chang-ho and his two friends in 2016. The latter earned a Piolet d’Or award the next year.

3 months ago
Reply to  Young

Yes, this article gives some useful and accurate history of Gangapurna:

When we were editing that article (at the AAJ) it became apparent in our research that the south face varies considerably from season to season (pre-monsoon/spring v. post-monsoon/autumn) and over the years. Some years/seasons it is very dry and others it has much more snow and ice.