An unexpected expedition will attempt Makalu in winter. Abolfazl Ghozali of Iran has just arrived in Nepal to climb the world’s fifth-highest peak, guided by Sanu Sherpa.
Gholazi, 62, has climbed the five peaks in the Snow Leopard challenge but has no previous winter 8,000m experience. He previously summited Manaslu and Lhotse but in spring on normal routes, on commercial expeditions. His winter climbing experience has been confined to Iran’s highest peaks: Damavand, Alamkouh, and Sabalan.
Sanu Sherpa, 49, has summited the 14×8,000’ers twice and is on the way to climbing them all a third time, always as a guide.
The expedition, outfitted by Makalu Adventure, will include Phurba Onggel Sherpa and Pastemba Sherpa. The outfitter announced the expedition some weeks ago, describing it as a commercial winter climb. The company has only confirmed Ghozali’s participation. It is unknown if other clients are on the team.