Commercial Expedition to Winter Makalu About to Begin

An unexpected expedition will attempt Makalu in winter. Abolfazl Ghozali of Iran has just arrived in Nepal to climb the world’s fifth-highest peak, guided by Sanu Sherpa.

Gholazi, 62, has climbed the five peaks in the Snow Leopard challenge but has no previous winter 8,000m experience. He previously summited Manaslu and Lhotse but in spring on normal routes, on commercial expeditions. His winter climbing experience has been confined to Iran’s highest peaks: Damavand, Alamkouh, and Sabalan. 

Sanu Sherpa, 49, has summited the 14×8,000’ers twice and is on the way to climbing them all a third time, always as a guide.

The expedition, outfitted by Makalu Adventure, will include Phurba Onggel Sherpa and Pastemba Sherpa. The outfitter announced the expedition some weeks ago, describing it as a commercial winter climb. The company has only confirmed Ghozali’s participation. It is unknown if other clients are on the team.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.