After returning from his remarkable no-O2 climb of Everest without personal Sherpa support, David Goettler hurried to post a detailed report.
“I used the fixed ropes,” he pointed out. Such statement may seem obvious, since he never tried to hide his intention to do so. However, according to the German IFMGA guide, there is a good reason to share all the details about how one climbs.
Climbing styles matter
“Honesty has been a core value in mountaineering since its inception, yet it is rapidly becoming the one that is the most neglected,” Goettler said. “Those of us who climb mountains, especially these Himalayan giants, know precisely what makes things easier and which tiny nuances make a huge difference to difficulty, effort, chances of success, and even survival.
“These days, when summiting an 8,000m peak could mean anything from using 8L/min of oxygen from Camp 2 and ‘aviation assistance’ to going alone with nothing but what you can carry, I’d like to encourage our community to embrace honesty and transparency.”
David Goettler atop Everest on Saturday. Photo: David Goettler
He started by being transparent himself — and grateful — about the ropes. Goettler thanked all the rope-fixing teams, from Kami Rita’s to the Ice Doctors. He then made a confession about some gummy bears.
Gummy bear-assisted?
“During my summit push, I used an abandoned tent platform in Camp 3,” Goettler said. “I’d made my own platform during my acclimatization rotation, but it seemed silly to use it when right there was a big deluxe platform standing empty. In Camps 2 and 4, I made my own platforms each time.”
On his summit push, Goettler further admits that he met Robert Kelso in Camp 4, who gave him a handful of Haribo gummy bears.
“Apart from that, I collected all my own snow and ice and melted it for drinking and I carried my own food,” he said.
Goettler in a high camp on Everest. Photo: David Goettler
The climbing elite respond
After his report, Goettler’s Instagram soon filled with appreciative comments, including from Kilian Jornet, with whom Goettler attempted the feat last year. Conrad Anker wrote: “Wonderful to see you achieve your dream in a manner keeping with your integrity.” Emili Harrington, Liv Sansoz, Jimmy Chin, Nepali IFMGA guide Abiral Rai, and others soon added to the applause. Jackson Groves congratulated him for his “rogue style”.
Goettler’s post has become a gallery of elite mountaineering support for not only a meritable climb, but for his honest, clear, and timely reporting.
Comments pile up on Gottler’s Instagram.
British guide Tim Mosedale added: “Transparency and honesty are great especially if you preempt the doubters. Then there are no…[later] justifications for decisions made…And aren’t Haribos great!”
Why is this important?
“This is not about judging style or ethics,” explained Goettler. “Everyone is free to climb how they wish and should be proud of what they accomplish. This is about being honest and openly presenting which choices you made.”
Indeed, we are witnessing a rapid expansion of Himalayan climbing styles, with all kind of tactics and objectives. We also have a vastly increased flow of social media PR and Instagram selfies. At the same time, we receive less reliable, detailed, and timely information about how the climbs themselves are done. High-altitude mountaineering accomplishments often lack witnesses, so transparency and honesty are essential, Goettler believes.
The German climber was not intending to break any record. He just wanted to do Everest his way. This was his third attempt.
Goettler rarely announces his plans in advance but spares no details after he finishes. This time, he has not only succeeded in his goal but done so in a way that the mountaineering community clearly admires.
