Italian climber Laura Rogora has made the first female ascent of ‘Lapsus’ (9a+) in Andonno, in northeastern Italy.
It was the seventh ascent of the 30m route that Stefano Ghisolfi first free climbed in 2015. At the time, he graded it 9b (5.15b).
Adam Ondra first repeated the line in April, 2017. On reflection, he considered the route 9a+ (5.15a). Ghisolfi himself agrees with that assessment today. He says that when he made the first ascent, kneepads (and kneebars) were not common. These make the route easier now than back in 2015.
French climber Seb Bouin was the last to repeat Lapsus before Rogora, just a month and a half ago.
Lapsus is actually the linkup of two historic routes at the crag. It starts with Noia (the first Italian 8c+) and finishes some 70 moves later on the hard part of Anaconda (8b+).
“Proud to add my name to the list of repeaters of this historical piece of Italian climbing”, said Rogora after the climb.
After Lapsus, Rogora had one day more in Andonno and climbed some other lines: Cobra Reale (8c+/9a) and Noi (8b+). Then she tried Calibro 38 (8c+), but “despite a good fight I was too tired for the send,” said Rogora.
