Francois Cazzanelli has finally made the first ascent of 6,781m Kimshung, which had thwarted the Italian guide on three previous attempts.
Cazzanelli attempted the Langtang, Nepal peak in the spring of 2015, the fall of 2016, and also in 2024, as a member of a seven-member Italian team. Last year, the summit eluded them on both their attempts.
This time, Cazzanelli returned with Giuseppe Vidoni, who had also joined him in 2024, plus Austrian climbers Benjamin Zoerer and Lukas Waldner. Damiano Levati was also there as photographer. They all kept their goal quiet until the end of the expedition.
Kimshung, also known as Tsangbu Ri, lies in Langtang National Park near the Tibetan border. At least six expeditions in the last decade have attempted it, according to Cazzanelli’s team.
1,300m in a day
Cazzanelli, Vidoni, Zoerer, and Waldner ascended via the northeast face in a single day from 5,450m at the base of the Kimshung Glacier. They summited at 12:30 pm on October 20 and were back down in the valley by 7 pm, according to their press release.
The route is 1,300m long and 60º steep. The team graded the route AI4, M5.
On Kimshung. Photo: Francois Cazzanelli/Instagram
