A month ago, a Japanese team went quietly into the Karakoram and opened a difficult new off-season route.
Takaaki Nagato, Ryo Masumoto, and Hiroki Yamamoto climbed the south face of 6,677m Koz Sar in the Batura Muztagh range. They climbed for 14 days in capsule style to complete their new 1,400m line. The team needed six portaledge camps before summiting on August 29. It took them two further days to descend.
Team member Yamamoto was nominated for a Piolet d’Or last year after the first ascent of 6,652m Pholesobi Peak in Nepal, via a direct route up its vertiginous north face with Hidesuke Taneishi. Taneishi is currently on his way to attempt the first ascent of Gangapurna West, also in Nepal.
