Two Americans Climb New Route on Tengkangpoche

On April 23, Patrick Johnson and Patrick Gephart of the U.S. summited 6,487m Tengkangpoche in the Rolwaling Himal. They did their new route alpine style via the north face, according to the managing director of Itrek Everest, via The Himalayan Times.

According to Johnson, Tengkangpoche’s north face was rather dry. After studying the face from several angles, they chose a route that linked several sections of ice and mixed terrain through passages they deemed safe.

overview of himalaya, including Tengkangpoche and Cho Oyu.

Tengkangpoche is in center right. Photo: Ash Routen


The climbers bivouacked at around 4,570m before beginning the ascent. They then navigated easy ice to the base of a smear of ice on the clean rock face. Johnson says they were pleasantly surprised to climb it in two fantastic pitches at WI3+.

The pair then continued directly up the north face, linking pitches of easy ice and mixed terrain with long sections of steep snow.

Final section before summiting Tengkangpoche.

The final section before summiting Tengkangpoche. Photo: Patrick Perry Johnson and Patrick Michael Gephart


“A final pitch of WI3 led us to the east ridge,” recalls Johnson. “We bivouacked at 6,000m and endured a sleepless night with neverending wind.”

The duo continued east toward the summit in clear weather, navigating a steep, narrow ridge with long sections of ice and neve.

Johnson recalls that several seracs and crevasses guarded the final ridge, but they passed with careful route finding. They finally reached the top of Tengkangpoche on April 23 at 3:30 pm, in the clouds.

They judged their new route WI3+/M3 Steep Snow, 1,500m.

Patrick Perry Johnson and Patrick Michael Gephart on the summit of Tengkangpoche.

Johnson and Gephart on the summit of Tengkangpoche.

Kris Annapurna

KrisAnnapurna is a writer with ExplorersWeb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, and news updates in the Himalaya, Karakoram, etc., for the past year with ExplorersWeb. Prior to that, Kris worked as a real estate agent, interpreter, and translator in criminal law. Now based in Madrid, Spain, she was born and raised in Hungary.