As a climber for the past seven years, I’ve purchased my fair share of climbing gear. The first harness I bought because it was affordable, and while it wasn’t bad, it wasn’t ideal for hanging in for long multi-pitch routes. Nor was it ideal for racking up with lots of gear once I started trad climbing.
So when I was in the market for a new harness, I went to the gear shop and started trying them on and hanging in them to see which was the most comfortable. The Petzl Luna was the most comfortable harness I tried, and it’s been my go-to ever since.
Best Uses
While I use my Petzl Luna as an all-around harness, it excels at some things more than others. It’s not the most lightweight harness, so if you’re looking for something that you’ll never notice in your pack or your body, it’s probably not the right option. Additionally, if you’re looking for a super lightweight glacier harness, you’ll definitely want to skip this one.
Since I mostly climb trad climbs and multi-pitches with some sport climbing mixed in, the Petzl Luna fits all of my needs. It’s cushy enough to hang in for long periods of time. At least for my body: Everyone’s bodies are different. But it’s not as heavy as other comfort-oriented harnesses like the Misty Mountain Cadillac. I find it to be the perfect middle ground between comfort and weight.
The Petzl Luna is perfect for single and multi-pitch trad, alpine rock climbing, and occasional sport climbing.
Features
The Luna has lots of gear space, making it ideal for the outings where you want to bring every last cordalette and runner for that blocky, run-out, alpine rock climb you have been dreaming about.
The five gear loops help you stash a full double rack, plus all the extras you think you might need. I know I’m someone who likes to have everything — just in case — so if you’re similar, having extra gear loops is key.
The two gear loops in the front are large and rigid for clipping quickly and storing lots of gear, while the back loops are flexible and angled for access even while wearing a backpack. The fifth back loop is large and flexible for storing anchor equipment or extras you don’t need all the time. There is also a rear accessory loop for a chalk bag or other needs.
The leg loops adjust, a feature that comes in handy if you climb all year round or ice climb in the winter. It’s a feature you never know you need until you’re trying to squeeze into your non-adjustable leg loops with two extra pairs of long johns on, and you can’t quite get your legs all the way in. Or, if you suffer from the fun athletic body problem of having significantly disproportionate quads to your waist, you probably already know you need a harness with adjustable leg loops.
The padded waistband supports your back while you hang around all day. The longer rise and waistband-to-leg-loop ratio of the harness are designed to fit a woman’s body comfortably.
Final Thoughts
If you’re primarily a trad climber or multi-pitch climber and want a harness that can stand up to hanging belays and carry lots of gear, the Petzl Luna is a great option. It’s a women-specific model with all the features you need for long days.
It’s been my favorite harness for a few years, to the point that I’ve had multiple of them. I find it comfortable while hanging, belaying, and climbing, and love how much room it has for gear. Plus, the purple color isn’t bad, either.
See Petzl LUNA Harness on Amazon
See Petzl LUNA Harness on Backcountry
