There’s finally news about the whereabouts of Mykyta Balabanov and Mykhailo Fomin of Ukraine. Bad conditions pushed the world-class climbers back from Makalu but they have a new plan: a new line up the West Face of Ama Dablam.
Earlier today, we reported about Mark Ablovacky and Alexandr Moroz’s recent repetition of the American Direct route on that same face of Ama Dablam. Trekking back to Pangboche after their climb, they crossed paths with Fomin and Balabanov. The Ukrainians explained that they had abandoned Makalu because of bad conditions and were moving to Ama Dablam instead. On Monday, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa published an Instagram story stating that Fomin and Balabanov were about to attempt a new route on the West Face of Ama Dablam.
The Ukrainians themselves have not publicly shared their plans and are not updating on social media. Anyway, there is no internet connection on the West Face of Ama Dablam.
Balabanov, left, and Fomin at the 2022 Piolets d’Or ceremony.
Two weeks ago, Pasang Rinzee shared this evocative video, zooming out from Makalu and zooming in on Ama Dablam:
This is the first time these two climbers are in Nepal after their 2021 ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III. ExplorersWeb ranked it as the best climb of that year, and it won a special mention at the Piolets d’Or.
