Teams on Nanga Parbat preparing themselves – acclimatizing and high camps fixing – for a potential summit window.
The current teams on Nanga Parbat are all strong and well experienced. They have their own strategies. Some are bold and quick, others are methodological and well defined. There are individuals who take the definition of ‘endurance’ to a whole new level. However, presently they are all preparing themselves – acclimatizing and high camps fixing – for a potential summit window.
Rupal Side
Justice for All Team – It’s all Poles now.
After being silent for a while, we finally have an update from Rupal side. The team has successfully negotiated ‘the Wielicki Crag’ and up the ridge at 6200m. They are now fixing the route to C3.
The team’s progress, however, hasn’t been particularly smooth. It’s reported that the Pakistani climbers Karim Hayat and Safdar Karim quit the expedition two weeks ago, due to some undisclosed issues. The seven member Polish group is still working on the mountain with available resources.
Diamir Side
Jacek Czech got an Infection
Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech left BC on January 7th aiming to reach 7000m for acclimatization. They spent the first night in C1 (4900m). Next day, they woke up early and were on the way to C2 when Jacek started feel unwell. He got an infection and slowed down significantly. This forced the duo to turn back and they are currently in BC. “We hope Jacek’s problems are just temporary and we can climb again in couple of days,” the climbers hope.
Tomek and Elisabeth in C3
Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol have established C3 (at around 6600m) and are hoping to conclude the acclimatization by gaining an altitude of 7000m today. The two climbers made it to C2 (ca 6000m) on January 7th. Next day they left for C3 but fierce wind forced them to retreat. On January 9th, wind slowed down at around 1PM.
“Tom and Eli, after crossing some beautiful ice formations are currently in C3 – more or less at the height of Ganalo Peak (6608m) – approximately 6600m-6700m. Tomorrow another acclimatization till 7000m, or maybe 7200. ‘Beautiful view (from up here)’ Tom says.” The team posted on Facebook yesterday.
International Team on Kinshofer Route
Alex Txikon, Daniele Nardi and Ali Sadpara reached 7800m on Kinshofer route last year. Their plan has been reattempting the same route. However, the conditions are much different (and difficult) this year. The team spent some time analyzing the possibility of change in their line of ascent.
On January 6th, after spending their first night in C1 (4800m), the three climbers did a reconnaissance of Mummery Ridge, Daniele Nardi’s personal favorite. They reached an altitude of 5200m and observed the seracs and cracks on the route. Daniele, who had already spent three winters on the route, thought it could be a good alternate. However, at the end, they decided to stick to original plan and are already going up the Kinshofer route.
With a forecast of few good weather days, they’re planning to put up C2 (6100m), now.
Simone and Tamara
We don’t have any further update on Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, who were resting in BC after second ‘partial’ rotation. They might have left for another round of acclimatization.
“}
