Karakorum Expeditions reports that their team summited Broad Peak today. According to one source, Mingma Dorchi reached the top within three days of arriving in Base Camp.
Hours later, Furtenbach Adventures confirmed the first summits of the season on Broad Peak. “After opening the route our team summited Broad Peak this morning: lead guide Max Berger did a Flash in 2 weeks from home without O‘s and they are on the way down,” the outfitter posted.
Meanwhile, the successful Nanga Parbat summiters are back in Base Camp, but a story remains to be told: Something went wrong yesterday for Cala Cimenti and Sergi Mingote, as their progress on the way down became desperately slow and even stopped completely for long periods of time.
Anton Pugovnik, descending on foot from the summit, lost sight of skiers Cimenti and Vitaly Lazo, and their home teams became increasingly alarmed at the lack of news. Skiers should have got down sooner than those on foot, not later. Happily, they checked in from Camp 4 very late last night.
By the way, if you checked the climbers’ trackers yesterday and this morning, you’ll have noticed that Mingote’s was stuck near Camp 4. He was fine; his batteries had just died. Now he’s back in Base Camp, and his freshly powered device shows the correct 4,200m altitude.
Trango Adventures estimates that 11 climbers topped out yesterday, including Mohammed Ali Sadpara. This marked his fifth Nanga Parbat summit. Mingote and Moesses Fiamoncini have confirmed that they both summited without supplementary oxygen. Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin also reached the top, but it is still unclear whether they skied down as planned.
In other news from Pakistan, Reinhold Messner’s son Simon has bagged the first ascent of Toshe III (locally known as Geshot Peak, approx. 6,200m). The mountain rises southwest of Nanga Parbat, in the Bunar Valley.
Related stories:
Nanga Parbat Climbers in Camp 4
First Nanga Parbat Summits Due Soon