Huber Abandons North Face of Latok I

Mountain
The North Face of Latok I from Base Camp. Photo: Tom Livingstone

Thomas Huber, along with fellow German Rainer Treppte, Italian Simon Gietl and French camerman Yannick Boisennot have abandoned plans to climb the North Face of Latok I (7,145 meters).

The international team had flown out to the Karakorum at the end of August in the hopes that the post-monsoon season would bring favourable conditions.

To acclimatise the quartet climbed nearby Panmah Kangri (6,406 meters) and then set their sights on Latok III as a warm-up to the main event. Speaking to blogger Stefan Nestler, Huber said initial forays onto Latok III started well: “We climbed up to Camp 1 at 5,700 meters and then down again. We calculated three days if everything went well and the conditions were good”.

Thomas Huber, Simon Gietl, Rainer Treppte and Yannick Boissenot (Right to Left). Photo: Thomas Huber

However good conditions were short lived as the weather changed keeping the summit under cloud for three weeks. When the weather finally cleared they were halted at Camp I due to heavy snowfall.

Panmah Kangri (6,406 meters). Photo: Thomas Huber

When the team headed over to have a look at the North Face of Latok I they found the wall plastered in snow and spindrift avalanches, and in a state they considered unclimbeable. At this point they called off any plans of getting on the wall. Huber said: “The North Face seems invincible. If you go there, you have to say ‚Good-bye life‘ – and then touch and go!”.

It’s been a busy year on Latok I. A South Korean team were avalanched off the North Face, a Russian team met with tragedy, and Tom Livingstone and co. sumitted via the North side.

Links

Latok I: In Conversation with Tom Livingstone

Breaking News: North Side of Latok I Finally Climbed

Updated: Gukov Rescued From Latok I

Gukov Trapped on Latok I After the Death of his Partner

South Koreans Survive Avalanche on Latok One

 

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash is an outdoor and adventure writer with a PhD in Exercise Science. He lives in the UK and has also written for Rock and Ice, Outside, UK Climbing etc. He recently led a 634km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in Siberia. See more at www.ashrouten.com.

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