Austrians Notch Unclimbed Himalayan peak

All smiles: The successful team celebrates on the summit. Photo: Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher

Four veteran Austrian alpinists have made the first ascent of an unnamed peak in the Indian Himalaya. Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher took three days to reach the 6,050-metre summit.

Hansjörg Auer told ExWeb: “We climbed a very logical line on the southeast face in a three-day, alpine-style push from the valley floor at around 3,200 meters.”

The unclimbed peak featured steep mixed terrain. Photo: Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher

They spent a number of days acclimatizing and waiting for suitable weather. When they were finally on the mountain, they encountered what Auer described as “very beautiful mixed pitches, but not too hard.” Following bivys at 4,000 and 5,000 metres, they summited early on October 5, then descended by rappelling the same route.

Said Auer: “It’s always great to attempt a virgin peak, and this time every decision turned out to be the right one.”

The allure of new ground. Photo: Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher.

This first ascent caps off a good year for Auer in the Greater Ranges. In June, he soloed the West Face of Lupghar Sar West in the Karakorum.


Hansjörg Auer Solos Lupghar Sar West

Hansjorg Auer Begins Solo of Lupghar Sar

Hansjörg Auer to solo Lupghar Sar West

Weekend Warm-Up: No Turning Back – Hansjörg Auer

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash Routen is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK specialising in adventurous travel and expeditions, such as mountaineering, polar travel, and ocean crossings. Ash juggles a day job as a public health scientist with this second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, national and international outdoor and adventure magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Alongside writing, Ash also spends some time undertaking his own adventures, and completed a 640 km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in 2018. His next arctic journey is a 700 km trek along the coast of Baffin Island in Canada.


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