Austrians Notch Unclimbed Himalayan peak

All smiles: The successful team celebrates on the summit. Photo: Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher

Four veteran Austrian alpinists have made the first ascent of an unnamed peak in the Indian Himalaya. Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher took three days to reach the 6,050-metre summit.

Hansjörg Auer told ExWeb: “We climbed a very logical line on the southeast face in a three-day, alpine-style push from the valley floor at around 3,200 meters.”

The unclimbed peak featured steep mixed terrain. Photo: Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher

They spent a number of days acclimatizing and waiting for suitable weather. When they were finally on the mountain, they encountered what Auer described as “very beautiful mixed pitches, but not too hard.” Following bivys at 4,000 and 5,000 metres, they summited early on October 5, then descended by rappelling the same route.

Said Auer: “It’s always great to attempt a virgin peak, and this time every decision turned out to be the right one.”

The allure of new ground. Photo: Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher.

This first ascent caps off a good year for Auer in the Greater Ranges. In June, he soloed the West Face of Lupghar Sar West in the Karakorum.


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Hansjorg Auer Begins Solo of Lupghar Sar

Hansjörg Auer to solo Lupghar Sar West

Weekend Warm-Up: No Turning Back – Hansjörg Auer

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash is a full-time PhD Exercise Scientist from the UK. Outside of work Ash is an outdoor and adventure writer who has written for Rock and Ice, Outside, Red Bull, The Telegraph, Financial Times, UK Climbing etc. In 2018 he led a 640km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in Siberia.
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