The Quiet Himalaya: A New Route on Chamlang

Marek Holeček and Zděnek Hák on Chamlang (7319 m), Nepal.

While Everest snags the headlines, the most remarkable climb of the season may have just taken place on Chamlang, a 7,319m peak at the head of Nepal’s Hongu Valley, in the shadow of Makalu. Czechs Marek “Mara” Holeček and Zděnek “Hook” Hák have climbed a new route up the 2,000m Northwest Face, on an alpine style, eight-day climb.

Marek Holeček and Zděnek Hák on Chamlang (7,319m).

The direct line up the giant face was apparently done in a single push, after they acclimatized on Mera Peak. They also climbed lightweight: After summiting, they had to wait out a storm in a bivouac for a day. As a result, they had nothing to eat for the last three days.

The hardcore pair’s new, alpine-style route on Gasherbrum I’s SW Face won them a Piolet d’Or last year.

About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Sport journalist, published author and communication consultant. Feeling back home at ExplorersWeb after five years exploring distant professional ranges.

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