Broad Peak Summit Push About to Begin

8000ers K2 Karakorum
Broad Peak meeting in Base Camp today. Photo: Sophie Lenaerts /8000 Unlimited

All teams currently on Broad Peak held a meeting in Base Camp today and decided on a massive summit push involving nearly 50 people.

After the meeting, Sophie Lenaerts shared the details with ExplorersWeb.

“Most teams have already reached Camp 3 [7,000m] for acclimatization, so virtually everyone here will participate in the push,” she said. “[We] aim to reach the summit on July 17.”

Sophie Lenaerts on the way to Camp 3 some days ago. Photo: Sophie Lenaerts

Both Lenaerts’ Belgian team and the Korean team led by Kim HongBin will leave for Camp 2 tonight. “All others will set off tomorrow, with Don Bowie leading the way,” Lenaerts explained.

Weather still poor

“It’s snowing right now, so we are a bit concerned about conditions. But if the forecast is right, the weather should improve tomorrow and stay stable until Sunday.”

The Belgians hope to reach Camp 2 today and Camp 3 tomorrow. “Then we will rest for one day [while the other teams join them]. On Friday night, we will set off for the summit with the rest, hoping to top out on the 17th.”

Camp 2 on Broad Peak some days ago. Photo: Sophie Lenaerts

Sophie Lenaerts’ team includes Steff Maginelle, Luc Beirinckx, Wouter Noterman, Niels Jespers, and Jeff Spelmans. None are using supplemental O2, although Beirinckx and Noterman will count on the help of two Pakistanis, Mustapha and Farman. After Broad Peak, Jespers and Spelmans will head for K2.

On the upcoming summit push, the Korean team is the only one planning to set up a fourth camp, probably on Thursday. The route from Camp 3 is quite steep until the saddle at about 7,600m, which leads to the long summit ridge. So the Koreans will likely pitch their camp on the saddle. Kim, who lost all his fingers after getting lost on Denali years ago, will finish his 14×8,000’er quest if he summits Broad Peak.

To know more about the route, the climb from camp to camp, and the summit day, see Broad Peak: A Climber’s Guide.

You can also find links to the trackers of several Broad Peak climbers here.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Marie
Marie
2 months ago

I think it’s always fantastic if people pursue a (decent) common goal together, but is it not a bit risky for the No-O2-climbers (or even people on oxygen) to climb together with almost fifty people considering that there could be delays like on Everest?

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Last edited 2 months ago by Marie
damiengildea
Editor
2 months ago
Reply to  Marie

The clients on O2 will almost certainly be faster than others there not using O2, so will put in a track through any snow for summit day, making it easier for the no-O2 people. The latter are going up a day earlier to be able to rest before summit day, as to push to the summit from C3 without bottled O2 is too hard for most, only for clients on bO2. Putting a C4 in would be better for most, especially those not using bO2. Plus there are not the bottlenecks or narrow sections to cause delay as there are… Read more »

S R
S R
2 months ago

The story of Kim Hong-Bin who lost all 10 fingers to frostbite in Denali continued climbing the 14x8000m is incredible. Wish him success on his 14th 8000m peak. See his story here: https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/kim-hong-bin-without-fingers-on-13-eight-thousanders/

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Anna
Anna
2 months ago

I hope it will go really well.

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Jehangir Jamali
Jehangir Jamali
2 months ago

Asif Bhatti, a Pakistani, is also at Basecamp and has completed a rotation to Camp 1. I am not which tour company he is with but I am aware that he does not plan to use 02 or high altitude porters in his attempt to climb Broad peak. You can look up his attempt/follow his journey on insta through his handle @thin_air_professor – he is a math professor at a local university. Please do include him in future articles regarding Broad Peak climbers for the season.

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