Yalung Peak Climbers on Summit Push

This week’s bad weather has thwarted all climbing teams in Nepal, including the alpine-style climbers attempting new routes.

High winds forced Peter Hamor of Slovakia, and Nives Meroi and Romano Benet of Italy, to abort their first push on a new route on 7,590m Yalung Peak in the Kangchenjunga region. They had to retreat from 6,000m and returned to Base Camp to wait for better conditions. The three climbers have been grounded for 10 days, but now an optimistic forecast has prompted them back to action.

Benet, Meroi and Hamor standing up in the street in Kathmandu, dressed in t-shirts and jeans.

Left to right, Romano Benet, Nives Meroi, and Peter Hamor in Kathmandu. Photo: Romano Benet/Facebook

Scant details

The team planned to wait one or two days for the weather to improve and for the mountain to sluff off its excess fresh snow. If all went well, they are likely climbing now.

Unfortunately, Hamor’s team only issued a brief update, so we aren’t sure if earlier, they climbed Kabru I as planned before moving onto Yalung Peak. But they are on Yalung now.

The team has no wifi connection, and Hamor just texts his wife briefly on his InReach. A full report will have to wait.

Nives Meroy on a snow-loaded slope, carrying poles to mark the route

Nives Meroi during the first ascent of Kabru South, also in the Kangchenjunga region, in 2023. Photo: Peter Hamor

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.