Jacek Pawel Czech of Poland is leading Szymon Kita and Aleksandra Kita in a late-season climb in the Karakoram’s Gasherbrum massif. The goal is unclimbed Gasherbrum VI, which is around 7,000m high.
Peaks and glaciers of the Gasherbrum group. Photo and graphics: Wikipedia
The altitude of GVI varies by source, ranging from 6,979m to 7,004m. It is the only unclimbed main peak in the massif, although it has been attempted at least five times. The first attempt was made in 1998 by Nicolas Bonhomme, Jean-Paul Cache, and Jean-Noel Urban of France. They came close, reaching 6,900m. Bonhomme died in an avalanche during the descent.
Last attempt came close
The last recorded attempt was made by Ralf Dujmovits and Nancy Hansen in 2016. The pair tried to climb the southwest ridge from a col they reached via a wide snow couloir. On the upper sections, however, they couldn’t find a safe passage across a rock barrier.
Gasherbrum VI from the Baltoro Glacier. The (A) marks the location of the northwest shoulder (6,839m). (B) is the main summit of Gasherbrum VI. (C) is the southwest col that Dujmovits and Hansen reached. (D) is Peak 6,300m, and (E) marks Peak 5,979m. Photo and caption: American Alpine Journal
Dujmovits and Hansen didn’t consider any other line on the mountain. “The only other option for aspiring climbers of Gasherbrum VI is to risk the avalanches, seracs, and cornices on the northeast face [see the feature image of this story], which again, in our opinion, is an unappetizing proposition,” they said.
We have asked team leader Pawel Czech and the expedition outfitter Anwar Syed of Lela Peak Expeditions for further details, but they may already have left Skardu for the trek along the Baltoro.
Szymon Kita and Jacek Pawel Czech at Skardu. Photo: Lela Peak Expeditions
Alternative climbing dates
Climbs in the Karakoram are rare in August, especially after August 15, because the weather is usually more unstable than in July. In recent years, one of the main problems climbers have faced in the Karakoram has been not only the storms but also the high temperatures. The Gasherbrum massif, located at the northeast edge of the Baltoro, is known for its tricky glacial terrain. Its many crevasses and slushy, treacherous summer snow make it difficult for climbers to reach the peaks.
Nancy Hansen and Ralf Dujmovits at Base Camp on Gasherbrum VI 10 years ago. Photo: Adventure Sports Blog
In one sense, starting a trip in the second half of August seems a risky option, although maybe it’s not such a bad idea these days. We asked Dujmovits and Hansen for their thoughts, and this is what they said:
Even if we don‘t know which side of the Gasherbrum VI the Polish team wants to try, we both think it‘s perhaps a good idea to generally shift the climbing in the Karakoram to a much earlier or later time of the year. The last few years, the usual season from mid-June to the end of July was mostly too hot and therefore too dangerous for high-altitude climbing. The weather patterns are changing worldwide due to climate change and so it‘s a good idea to adapt.
