Two Dead in Mont Blanc’s ‘Death Couloir’

This week, falling rocks killed two Czech climbers at the Gouter Couloir. So many accidents have happened in this narrow spot that it is known as the Bowling Alley or the Death Couloir. The high rockfall risk is even higher in the scorching temperatures.
The group comprised two clients led by professional UIAGM guide Pavel Zofka. They set off from the Tête Rousse mountain hut (3,149m), in the dark on Wednesday, and reached the spot where climbers usually cross the Grand Couloir du Gouter at the coldest time of night.
This is the most cautious way to climb Mont Blanc in summer. Other climbers were also on their way to the Refuge du Gouter, on the normal route to the summit of Mont Blanc. These two were the only ones unfortunate enough to be hit by falling rock.

The 57-year-old mountain guide and one of his clients, 49, died. A third member of the team was injured but survived and was airlifted to the hospital.

According to La Chamoniarde, the blog published by Chamonix’s rescue corps, rocks continued falling for a long time afterward.

The Gouter Couloir is an unavoidable section on the lower part of the normal route up Mont Blanc. It lies past the Tête Rousse Refuge and on the way to the Gouter Refuge and the ridge to the summit.

It is infamous for constantly falling rocks, especially in the afternoon. Summer climbers try to minimize the danger by crossing the 150m-wide shooting gallery very early in the morning. A cable helps climbers cross, but speed and extreme caution are a must.

Hot summer, more unstable

According to Wspinanie.pl, research conducted by ISTerre Laboratories shows that between 1990 and 2017, as many as 347 rescues occurred at this location, including 102 (!) fatalities and 230 injuries. Statistically, about four climbers die here each year.

It’s now peak season in the Alps, but the consecutive heat waves that are scorching central Europe this summer are destabilizing conditions on these drier-than-usual peaks. Running water on the glaciers and thawing permafrost cause frequent rockfall.

The new Refuge du Gouter is still operating, but those planning to summit Mont Blanc from France should check conditions carefully before risking that route. On the Italian side of the mountain, mountain guides have halted their planned client ascents, AFP reported.

Caution is also advised ed on the Matterhorn, where two climbers fell to their deaths earlier this week shortly after starting the descent down the normal Hornli Ridge route. The police are investigating the cause of the accident.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.