The main stage of Denis Urubko’s winter expedition to Gasherbrum I will begin soon. Urubko’s small convoy is expected to reach Base Camp today. The camp, located at 5,000m, is common to both Gasherbrum I and II, but it is quite far from the peaks. To reach them, climbers need to find a route across the hazardous Gasherbrum glacier. For Gasherbrum I, the base of the peak is at 6,500m.
The glacier
As Urubko mentioned before his departure, “he is not crazy” and knows that venturing into the heavily crevassed glacier alone would be close to suicide. The glacier is particularly dangerous in winter when it is drier and crevasses are wide open.
Therefore, Urubko will rope up with local climber Hassan Shigri. While not confirmed by either climber, hopefully, Shigri will then wait for Urubko while he climbs the peak. Urubko will ascend alone, via the normal route.
Expect little news
Urubko spent a last night in Shama military camp yesterday, on the edge of the Gasherbrum Glacier. “There will be no more internet,” he warned. Any further news will likely be via his partner Pipi Cardell who might post to social media.
