A Czech-Slovak expedition is currently on India’s Bhagirathi 3 (6,454m). The foursome is trying to free-climb the Stairway to Heaven route up the Southwest Pillar.
Martin Krasnansky, Tomas Bcek, Michal Mikusínec, Pavel Nesvadba (CZ), and trekker Zolo Demjan set off toward India’s Garhwal Himalaya on August 20.
This is Martin Krasnansky’s second attempt after a first try in 2019. Several teams have attempted to free-climb this pillar, but none have succeeded. A 2023 Spanish team reached the summit but climbed in capsule style.
Background
The Stairway to Heaven was opened in 2004 by Germans Walter Holzler and Jorg Pflugmacher in a six-day climb with five bivouacs on portaledges. The 1,300m route features difficulties up to 5.12 (7b to 7c). Bob Barton and Alan Fyffe of Scotland first climbed the Southwest Pillar of Bhagirathi III in 1982. Check the lines below:
Bhagirathi III, with Stairway to Heaven (2) and the Scottish route (3). Photo: Ondrej Huserka/AAJ
Swiss climbers Stefan Siegrist and Jonas Schild opened a new route up the Southwest Ridge (to the right of the SW Pillar) in 2024.
