Most of the attention has been focused on a chaotic end to the Everest season, but there is also climbing action in Pakistan. In particular, an elite international team has an impressive goal in mind: Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee of Belgium, Symon Welfringer of France, and Pete Whittaker of the UK are eyeing a new big wall route on Tahu Rutum. The 6,651m peak has been climbed only once before.
The team flew to Pakistan in the last week of May and immediately set off toward the head of the Biafo Glacier and Tahu Rutum. The team has not revealed the exact route, but given the climbers’ abilities, the mighty west face is a likely candidate.
The west face of Tahu Rutum. Photo: Kyle Dempster
Before departure, Vanhee showed the climbing equipment they were taking along. The gear was suitable for a big wall climb with an approach over glacial terrain and possibly some mixed pitches.
Tahu Rutum was summited only once, by a Japanese team in 1977. Led by Nobuo Kuwahara, the expedition climbed in siege style, fixing ropes and setting camps along its southwest ridge.
Impressive solo attempt
The first attempt on Tahu Rutum’s west face was — remarkably — by a solo, 25-year-old American climber. In 2008, Kyle Dempster reached the face completely alone and climbed a 1,300m route, although he failed to reach the summit. The adventure included 60º ice ramps, difficulties on rock up to A3, and several days battling storms in his portaledge. He finally retreated at 6,000m because he ran out of food.
Kyle Dempster in Islamabad in 2008, before climbing Tahu Rutum. Photo: Alpine Club of Pakistan
In an interview with Alpinist Magazine, Dempster said that he received calls every year from climbers interested in the west face. In 2013, a Korean team made an attempt but aborted when a rock hit the team leader, according to the Alpymon blog.
Unfortunately, Dempster will not be able to give any advice to the current team. Dempster died in 2016 while attempting Baintha Brakk II, known as the Ogre II, in India’s Himalaya.
Expedition ongoing
Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee have shone during the latest Patagonia season: Villanueva made the first free climb of the East Pillar of Fitz Roy with Tasio Martin of Spain, and Vanhee completed the South African Route up Central Torres del Paine in 24 hours, teaming up with American Tommy Caldwell.
Symon Welfringer climbs year-round, in the Alps and the Himalayas. Last year, he attempted the mythical west face of Gasherbrum IV with Charles Dubouloz.
Pete Whittaker is a well-known big wall and ice climber who has teamed up with Sean Villanueva on several occasions.
Upon departure, the team, outfitted by Alpine Adventure Guides, warned that they wouldn’t be posting updates until the expedition finished. We’ll have to wait to find out more about the route and the results.
