A four-man team will try to free climb the Stairway to Heaven route up the Southwest Pillar of Baghirathi III (6,454m), in India’s Garhwal Himalaya.
Martin Krasnansky, Tomas Bcek, Michal Mikusinec of Slovakia, and Pavel Nesvadba of Czechia updated their progress after retreating to Gangotri village for a rest after scouting the route. Lack of communication is the norm for climbing expeditions in India, where there is no cellphone connection and the use of satphones and InReach devices is forbidden.
Rainy start
“We built our Camp 1 at 5,400m, and spent a first night in heavy rain that caused several rocks to fall on us, so we moved the campsite down the valley,” they reported to SHS JAMES last week.
It rained relentlessly after that, so the climbers decided to walk the 24km back to Gangotri and rest for three days to dry their gear and recover from the colds and runny noses they had come down with.
The Southeast Face of Baghirathi 3. Photo: SHS JAMES
The team left to return to the mountain on Sunday, with a better weather forecast ahead and a summit plan in mind: “We will attempt the route on Tuesday. We are acclimatized, we already have our things stacked at the beginning of the route, and, hopefully, we will be healthier by then.”
Dry face
The climbers noted they will have to deal with a logistical problem: The entire face is on dry rock, and there is no snow to melt for water along the route’s 900m length. They will have to carry all water in their backpacks.
“It will be fun to drag that from the start, but, hey, we received the Puja blessing in Gangotri, so hopefully it will work.” Here’s a photo of the ceremony:
The Czech-Slovak team during a blessing ceremony. The climbers are the three with bead necklaces and the guy in the ball cap on the far left. Also with the team is Zolo Demjan (white beard), who will wait for the climbers in Base Camp. Photo: SHS JAMES
