No Go on Biarchedi I

The relentless bad weather in the Karakorum has spelled the end of Ralf Dujmovits and Nancy Hansen’s attempt on unclimbed Biarchedi I (6,810m).

The climbers progressed without fixed ropes or camps, completely on their own, moving on unknown terrain toward a remote summit. A good weather window — six days, Dujmovits estimated — was essential.

“With a forecast of four-and-a-half days of good weather, we headed up,” he wrote. “But the snow started again after only one day, and our good weather window was shortened to two-and-a-half days — not nearly what we needed.

“After an additional 30-40 cm of new snow, we headed down, bringing all of our things with us from our high point at 5,650m,” Ralf Dujmovits said.

The climber didn’t hide his disappointment at the end of their expedition. “[We] have invested so much time, energy, and money into such a trip, only to be shut down by almost three weeks of bad weather,” he said.

For those who have followed the expedition, however, the pair has shown an example of the Karakorum’s potential for lightweight, creative alpinism.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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1 year ago

A beautiful attempt despite the disappointment dealt by the weather. Bravi!

Benny Smith
Benny Smith
1 year ago

I like their style and I am sure they will be back. As they have explored some of the Uncharted terrain in the mountain, perhaps a success will be possible in better weather next year