An update on all the alpine action in Pakistan, including news from the Pou Brothers on Great Trango, David Klein and Bence Kerekes on Istor-O-Nal, and a Czech team attempting an exciting first ascent on Muchu Chhish.
Muchu Chhish
A Czech team is heading to Pakistan to attempt the first ascent of 7,453m Muchu Chhish. Located in the Batura Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram in Pakistan, Muchu Chhish is the highest unclimbed peak in the world that climbing is permitted on. The highest unclimbed mountain is 7,570m Gankhar Puensum in Bhutan, but climbing is forbidden because of its sacred status.
The Czech team of Muchu Chhish consists of Pavel Korinek, Pavel Bem, Radoslav Groh, and Tomas Petrecek. This is the third time that Czech climbers have attempted Muchu Chhish. Pavel Korinek, Pavel Bem, and Tomas Petrecek attempted it in 2020, and Korinek, Bem, and Petrecek tried in 2021. Groh, joining the team this year, was Marek Holecek’s climbing partner on Baruntse. Last year, Groh, Petrecek, and Holecek attempted a new route on 7,821m Masherbrum.
Muchu Chhish. Photo: Everest Today
Muchu Chhish is in a very remote area and it’s quite complicated to reach its final crest. It is a very long way at high altitude to reach its summit despite a prominence of only 263m. Avalanches, dangerous traverses, and changeable weather conditions make this peak is really challenging.
Muchu Chhish had been attempted by a few teams previously, among them a British attempt by Peter Thompson, Phil de Berger, and Jim Oates in 2014. Then there were the Czechs in 2020 and 2021, and Austrian duo Philipp Brugger and Catalan Jordi Tosas attempted it in 2020.
Great Trango Tower
Avalanche danger and bad weather have stopped Eneko Pou, Iker Pou, Fay Manners, and Andres Marin at 6,000m on their Great Trango Tower summit push.
The Trango Towers. Photo: Eneko and Iker Pou
In bad conditions, the team gained 1,600m vertical meters. The climbers had to break trail, sometimes in deep snow up to the waist. They set up a camp in a spectacular spot and the next day, Iker Pou and Marin led the ascent because Manners and Eneko Pou woke up with altitude sickness.
The danger was constant, with a 45° to 50° slope, and several avalanches hit them. They were afraid of a possible fatality. A little higher, they reached an area of glazed rock that they could not overcome. Their highest point was 6,000m.
The small base camp at Istor-O-Nal. Photo: David Klein
Istor-O-Nal
David Klein and Bence Kerekes already reached their base camp for 7,403m Istor-O-Nal in the wild Hindu Kush.
They share their diaries every few days. Klein wrote that the pair are accompanied by three cooks and a liaison officer. Klein and the Pakistanis chat in Urdu, at least, Klein tries to, persevering with limited grammar!
Having arrived at base camp, the pair started to select the material they need for reconnaissance of the first section of the mountain. Kerekes’ stomach is getting better each day.
Bence Kerekes (left) and David Klein on the moraine. Photo: Bence Kerekes
The plan for the first day was to establish a deposit above the crampon point on the slope of Istor-O-Nal. First, they ascended through a moraine couloir, reaching the crampon point where the snow line starts. At 4,900m they finished the snow couloir and reached a 25° slope. From there, the climbers were putting bamboo sticks every 50 to 100 meters with some red textiles on the sticks to make them visible in the snow.
As they progressed, they had their first view of the beautiful Tirich Mir.
Istor-O-Nal. Photo: Mahraka.com
After four hours ascending, Klein and Kerekes established their deposit point at about 5,250m next to a big rock. Then they descended to base camp.
Nanga Parbat
As yet, there’s no news from David Gottler and Benjamin Vedrines on their alpine-style ascent of the Rupal face of 8,126m Nanga Parbat. Most likely they are climbing.
Nanga Parbat. Photo: David Goettler
Meanwhile, on Nanga Parbat’s normal route, more than 100 climbers applied for permits. It means that are three times more people than in previous years. Apart from the typical commercial clients and their agencies, there are a few that will attempt to ascend the mountain without O2 and high-altitude porters.
On June 10, the five-man Pakistani rope-fixing team fixed the ropes to Camp 2. Some climbers are already on their acclimatization rounds, while others are about to arrive at base camp.
