Russian Solo Climber Missing in Pamirs

Evgeniy Glazunov of Russia, famous for his bold solo climbs on high mountain faces, is missing on Ak-Su, a 5,355m peak in Kyrgyzstan’s Pamir-Alai range.

Glazunov last contacted home three days ago, at 3 pm. He had summited the peak via the Chaplinsky route, a direct line up the center of Ak-Su’s formidable north face. He was reportedly retracing his steps down in bad weather, with snow falling and poor visibility.

The north face of Ak-Su, in the Pamir-Alai range. Photo: More info on Ak-Su’s north face routes here.

The family is trying to raise money for an aerial search, which will cost around $30,000, according to Glazunov had no insurance policy, but fellow climbers Alexey Boyko and Anatoly Syshchikov are flying to the Ak-Su area tomorrow, said’s Anna Piunova.
Glazunov, a professional mountain guide from Siberia, is known for his daring solos in Europe and Central Asia, including several first ascents. Check his complete resumé here.
Evgeniy Glazunov often climbed with his brother Sergey, until Sergey perished on Latok I in the Karakoram in 2018.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.