Tseng done with Kangchenjunga, Winter K2 Next?

8000ers Kangchenjunga
Tseng Ko-Erh on Kangchenjunga's summit on Saturday. Photo: Tseng Ko-Erh

The Kangchenjunga team is back in Kathmandu. Their climb produced Kangchenjunga’s first fall season summits since 2004. It also brings Tseng Ko-Erh of Taiwan and Gelje Sherpa of Nepal one step closer to their respective goals.

Gelje Sherpa

Gelje Sherpa aims to become the youngest climber to complete the 14×8,000’ers. He still needs Broad Peak, which he could climb next summer, and Cho Oyu. Cho Oyu is logistically tricky. Unless he gets permission to enter Tibet, he will have to climb the more difficult Nepalese side. To break the record, he needs to top out on both mountains before spring 2023.

To avoid controversy, Gelje may also want to climb Manaslu’s main summit. He has climbed to the summit ridge, stopping at what had become the usual summit point, but he had not reached the true summit. From 2022, Manalsu’s foresummits will not be considered summits by the Himalayan Database.

Tseng Ko-Erh

A cup of tea and a smoke back in Base Camp. Photo: Tseng Ko-Erh

Tseng is the first Taiwanese woman to summit Kangchenjunga. Over the last six months, she has placed herself at the forefront of Taiwan’s mountaineering scene. She has summited four 8,000’ers in those six months, has climbed five in total, and now looks set to kick on.

On Instagram today, Tseng says she will attempt K2 next winter! She also mentioned Nanga Parbat but did not say when she planned to climb it. It will be interesting to see how her K2 plans shape up. Pakistan’s Jasmine Tours has a notice on their website offering winter expedition logistics to the Savage Mountain, but this is more likely to be trekking and Base Camp support. A few teams have shown interest in K2 this winter, but nothing is confirmed.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Apy
Apy
1 month ago

Two strong and interesting characters. I wish them both full success in their endeavors

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bagra
bagra
1 month ago

four 8,000’ers in six months !?!
wow really ?

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Apy
Apy
1 month ago
Reply to  bagra

In fact 5 months… Everest May 12; Lhotse May 23; Dhaulagiri Oct 1; Kangchenjunga Oct 16

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SisMi
SisMi
1 month ago

Excuse my ignorance… what’s that pink layer Tseng Ko-Erh has on her face?

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Steve
Steve
1 month ago
Reply to  SisMi

Believe its a material that sticks like a bandaid to protect her skin from uv rays with the sun. Maybe also so her skin wont freeze.

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Praeriepanther
Praeriepanther
1 month ago

Props to the lady for her achievement. But excuse me, at the forefront of the Taiwanese mountaineering scene? With a 1:4 client to sherpa/guide ratio? She announces plans for winter K2? What plans? To follow a group of guides on the fixed ropes on bottled oxygen? Isn’t mountaineering done by mountaineers any more?

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Jahan
Jahan
1 month ago
Reply to  Praeriepanther

lol Mountaineering is now done by sherpas. They make it easy for others.

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Joe Tam
Joe Tam
1 month ago

👍👏👍👏👍👏為國增光我以你為榮

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