Subscribe to the ExWeb newsletter

Get a weekly roundup of the latest exploration news.

Name

Email*

SUBMIT

New Route on the Miage Face of Mont Blanc

Mountain
Mont Blanc from the Italian side. The Brouillard Ridge rears up from the glacier in the center of the image.

Michael Rinn of Germany and Simon Richardson of the U.K. have forged the first new route on a part of the Mont Blanc massif since 1989.

In mid-August, the duo completed a first ascent of Perfect Storm, on the northwest face of Pointe Louis Amédée (4460m). The peak lies on the Brouillard Ridge leading to the summit of Mont Blanc (4808m). 

The 700m line took them two days and required nine zigzagging pitches up the right side of a triangular granite pillar between Himalamiage (750m, ED1) and Fanta Couloir (700m, TD), which were first climbed in the 1980s. After three difficult pitches of 6a+, they reached the well-defined upper spur and followed it for six more pitches until a featureless tower forced them to bivy.

They rapped partway down the following morning and found easier terrain, which led them to the summit of Pointe Louis Amédée. They descended to the Vallot hut to hole up from bad weather for two days, then traversed the Aiguille du Bionnaissay and the Domes de Miage to Les Contamines. In all, they spent eight days in the mountains.

About the Author

Matthew Traver

Matthew Traver

Matt Traver is a filmmaker, photographer and creator of content relating to adventure, travel and culture.

Leave a Reply

2 Comments on "New Route on the Miage Face of Mont Blanc"

avatar
  Subscribe  
newest oldest most voted
Notify of
Lola
Guest

I love your writing style!!! Cool new route ✨