Canadian biathlete-turned-mountaineer Haldan Borglum, 26, has completed all 58 peaks over 11,000ft in the Canadian Rockies in the fastest known time. He is also the youngest to complete the list. Borglum began his first peak in June 2024 and did the last a couple of weeks ago. He finished the set in two years and six days, surpassing the previous fastest time of 5.5 years.
“The climbs were completed across the Canadian Rockies in Alberta and British Columbia and include many of the range’s most iconic mountains such as Mount Robson, Mount Assiniboine, Mount Columbia, and Mount Alberta,” said Borglum.
“Several peaks were linked in efficient multi-summit pushes, including a seldom-done multi-day linkup of Mount Robson, The Helmet, and Resplendent Mountain.”
The Canadian Rockies 11,000’er’s
In 2004, Canadian climber Bill Corbett published a book detailing 54 mountains over 11,000ft in the Canadian Rockies. The first edition of the book contained 54 peaks, but the revised third edition includes 58.
“It’s also worth noting that the concept of prominence never seemed to have caught on in the Canadian side, so there is no prominence cut-off for this elevation-based list,” writes Canada-based peakbagger Steven Song, who at 27 was the previous youngest finisher.
“There are quite a few peaks that have absurdly low prominence, such as North Victoria, Goodsir Center, and Lunette Peak.”
Photo: Haldan Borglum
While some of the peaks are accessible to experienced mountaineers, others present significant technical challenges. Mountains such as Mount Robson and Mount Alberta are among the most demanding objectives in the range, requiring good conditions and solid alpine skills.
Despite growing interest in the list since the publication of Corbett’s book, Borglum became only the 24th completer. Although the Canadian Rockies stretch roughly 1,400km from the Canada–U.S. border to northern British Columbia, the peaks exceeding 11,000ft are concentrated in the southern half of the range.
Photo: Haldan Borglum
Spectacular and remote
Attempting the list takes climbers through some of the Rockies’ most spectacular landscapes, including the Columbia Icefield, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Kananaskis Country, Lake Louise, and remote wilderness areas across British Columbia.
“The record culminated in a five-day expedition to Mount Clemenceau and Tusk Peak, two of the most remote and infrequently climbed 11,000’ers in the Canadian Rockies,” said Borglum.
Photo: Haldan Borglum
“After my climbing partners withdrew from the trip one day in, I continued alone to the remote Clemenceau Icefield and summited both peaks solo, bringing the project to a close.”
From world championships to the mountains
Borglum, who is based in the Bow Valley in the Canadian Rockies, is a recently retired elite biathlete who has represented Canada at World Cups and World Championships.
“The project was completed alongside my athletic career and is part of a broader long-term goal of pursuing major alpine objectives around the world in the coming years,” says Borglum.
Photo: Haldan Borglum
“I first stumbled across this list of peaks around 2020-2021 while browsing trip reports, an amazing group of summits, but also intimidating. I remember thinking I would never have the skill set or the gonads to tackle some of the more savage mountains,” Borglum wrote on his website.
“After summiting my first 11,000’er, Mount Temple, in 2020, I knew I was hooked, but it wouldn’t be for another three-and-a-half years that my true 11000’er journey began,” he added.
“Once I started checking them off in the spring of 2024, it didn’t take long for these lofty peaks to become an all-encompassing goal and obsession of mine outside of biathlon.”
