Broad Peak: Urubko Reaches 7,000m

Impossible to tell who the wrapped figure is, Denis, Don or Lotta, on a higher camp at winter Broad Peak. Photo: Denis Urubko's website.

In a brief report today, Urubko cited “very hard conditions” on Broad Peak. Coming from him, this surely means it’s hell. Indeed, Urubko, Don Bowie and Lotta Hintsa have endured a lot of wind and snow on the plateau.

They have currently camped for the night. Bowie and Hintsa stopped at 6,600m, while Urubko pushed further up and set up his tent inside a sheltering crevasse.

There had been no previous mention of Lotta Hintsa, so it was uncertain whether the Finnish climber would join the summit push, as she now seems to have.

Previously, they were expected to top out tomorrow, but with another 1,000 vertical metres and a long way to go horizontally, coupled with uncooperative weather, it is unclear whether they will be able to keep that timetable. We’ll continue to monitor and update over the weekend.

Other winter peaks

Alex Txikon has just reached Everest Base Camp with a small team and climbing mates Jonatan García and Oscar Cardo. They’ll now start work on the South Col route. Solo climber Jost Kobusch is also back in Base Camp after a troubled ascent to the lower sections of West Ridge earlier this week.

Meanwhile, in the Pamirs, the Russian-Kyrgyz team has summited Ismoil Somoni (formerly Peak Communism) via a partially new route. Details are expected once they return to Base Camp. This team is preparing to attempt K2 next winter.

About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Sport journalist, published author and communication consultant. Feeling back home at ExplorersWeb after five years exploring distant professional ranges. From Dec19 to Feb20, I'll be also working as press manager for Alex Txikon's expeditions to Antarctica, winter Ama Dablam and winter Everest.

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2 Comments on "Broad Peak: Urubko Reaches 7,000m"

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Karakorum Expeditions
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we wish the team good health and good weather if they want to retry the summit, NO doubt Denis is a hard core guy.. if he thinks not possible than there is very slim chance for K2 guys! best of luck to the teams and for their wellbeing e

Sunny
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Godspeed